
I am walking through mistbelt grassland, following an old track that leads down past the Two Pines and eventually reaches the river. The saddle, I am now crossing, provides a suitable habitat for three types of Cisticolas, all of which I regularly see here – LeVaillant’s, Wailing and Zitting. Yellow Bishop Birds, various Widowbirds, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Grassbirds, Buff-streaked Chat, Rufous-naped Larks, Red-winged Francolin, Common Button Quail and, on rare occasions, the elusive Broad-tailed Warbler also occur here. In the firebreak-burning season, the African Pipit and Black-winged Lapwing also put in an appearance.






At the edge of the saddle, I stop to watch the swifts, diving vigorously above me with their swept-back wings. It is amazing to think they may have flown to Europe and back without once touching land.
Birds are a marvel of nature. Evolution has given them a particular combination of speed, stamina and agility that suits their lifestyle, be it in the air, on land or in water. Their diversity allows them to hold their own in virtually any environment on earth. The more you understand about them, the more wonderful they get.
My interest in birds and avian behaviour began at an early age. At boarding school in the Matopos in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and, later, Plumtree, on the Botswana border, I used to make regular weekend forays into the bush and surrounding kopjes with my elder brother Pete and a couple of his like-minded friends, looking for birds (and, I am now ashamed to admit, their eggs). At that stage, it was more my brother’s interest than mine. I mainly tagged along to escape the discipline and confines of the school. ‘Exeats’, as it was called, was an activity that both schools encouraged. They believed it would turn us into good, wholesome, patriotic Rhodesians. In my case, I am not sure it did.

Pete was more practical than I was, and his approach to birding was very systematic, thorough and scientific. He had specially designed and got printed a series of cards on which he recorded all the birds’ details and distinguishing features – their looks, their behaviour, the habitat they occurred in, the food they ate, the type of nest they built, the colour and pattern on their eggs, their calls, etc.
There was something a bit Victorian about this gathering of information, but I admired Pete to the point of hero-worship. I was never that conscientious, which probably also explains why he always did better at school than I did.
Being artistically inclined, I was attracted to birds more viscerally. I found them beautiful and took delight in their diversity and the rich pageant of brilliant colours they came in, as well as in their contrasting, often highly tuneful, birdsong. It is little wonder that birds have long been celebrated in poetry, prose, art and even music.
After I left school, my attentions became focused elsewhere. For about a decade, I did very little birding.
That all changed when I joined the Witness newspaper in Pietermaritzburg as its Political Cartoonist. There, I met Ken, the sports writer, one of the paper’s true characters and legendary journalists. Ken was passionate about birding (and sea shells – and a few more things besides). As I had never been to Kruger, he invited me to join him on one of his regular ‘bird trips’ there. For two weeks, we travelled the length and breadth of the park, from South to North, East to West. From sunrise to sunset, every day, we were on the road, scanning the bush for birds. Ken doesn’t believe in wasting valuable birding time sitting around in camp.
Ken’s enthusiasm was infectious, and he had a wonderful eye and ear for sightings. We saw hundreds of birds, many of them new species for me. It was a transcendent experience. By the time I returned to Pietermaritzburg, I had undergone a Damascus-style conversion. The spirit had re-entered me and taken possession of my soul. I had become a Born-Again Birder. In the next few years, my belief would border on fanaticism. I even started keeping notes.
(I have mellowed a bit since then, lost some of my single-minded focus, but not my love for birds.)
Thereafter, I joined Ken on many of his expeditions. Kruger, Mapungubwe and Ndumo became regular destinations. We began our one trip by driving down to Umhlanga Rocks on the East Coast of South Africa, dipping our feet in the Indian Ocean, and then heading cross-country, via Kimberly and the Augrabies Falls, to Alexander Bay on the West Coast, where we dipped our feet in the Atlantic. It was a lot colder.

From there, we headed, in Ken’s tiny blue Ford Laser, packed solid with camping gear, to the mountain desert of the Richtersveld. We made it all the way to the top, via Hell’s Gate and past Mount Terror, on what was supposed to be a 4X4-only route. We were the only ones there. When a highly organised convoy of fully purpose-built 4 X 4s, equipped with winches, jerry cans of fuel and a multitude of spare tyres (our only one had a puncture), later arrived, they couldn’t believe their eyes. I think they thought we were some sort of mirage. How on earth had we made it all the way up here in that ridiculous little car?! They looked a bit crestfallen. It took some of the triumph out of their own achievement. From our positions, under a large boulder whose shadow protected us from the worst of the sun, we raised our beers and said, “Cheers! Welcome to Kokerboomkloof!”

We also camped beneath the Blouberg, famous for its large vulture colony. We pitched our small tents on the side of the Soutspanberg, in a howling gale, and almost ended up in the valley below. We got chased down a narrow mountain pass in Marakele (famous for its vulture colony, as well) by an enraged elephant. We got drenched in the forests of Magoeberskloof, slept – or rather tried to sleep – through a hurricane in Mzimkulu. We narrowly missed being struck by lightning in Ndumo. We were hounded by a hyena in Bonamanzi, and I almost got bitten by a Mozambique Spitting Cobra the next day. On two occasions in Punda Maria, Ken had his malaria tablets stolen by monkeys. I lost a box of rusks to a Night Ape.

Generally, Ken and I avoided the organised birding groups because there is often a vague air of elitism about them, a sense of one-upmanship. Nor did we want to be identified with the nerds in their anoraks and all their paraphernalia. There is far more pleasure to be derived in heading off the beaten track and discovering a rare bird on your own, rather than having a paid guide find it for you (for example, we found the Pel’s Fishing Owl on our own, at Ratho on the Botswana border).
On our various travels, it wasn’t always just Ken and me. We had our own little birding group of good friends, like-minded twitchers and wildlife enthusiasts who would join us every now and again – Mark, Gavin, Gwen, Ant and, later, Carl. We were always a happy band of fellow travellers.
Part of the excitement of birding is, of course, that you never know what you are going to find. It also gets you outdoors and into the wilds. As well as birds, there is often new, breathtaking scenery to discover, new sights to see.
You can bird almost anywhere. Your back garden is as good a place as any to start. I live in the country, which means my local patch is bigger than that of most urban dwellers. Tramping back and forth over it, month after month, can make you more sensitive to the constant changes taking place around you. You build up a comforting familiarity with the landscape. You get to know the regular birds and those that come and go depending on food availability or, in the case of the migrants, the seasons. Sometimes, you stumble on a bird you didn’t expect to find in your area at all. I was recently amazed to see a European Roller, which is not a bird I would associate with our mistbelt grassland. It hung around for several months.






A few of the many birds seen in my garden…
Over the years, my bird list began to grow. I became relentless in my pursuit of new species. It is difficult to explain just what the lure of the rare consists in, but, as a teenager, I remember poring over the old Norman C. K. Lighton illustrations in Roberts Birds of South Africa and finding myself intrigued by such oddities as the Narina Trogon, the African Broadbill, the Eastern Nicator, the African Pitta and the Pel’s Fishing Owl. Now that I was back into my birding, I wanted to find them.

I did, all except the Pitta. I have a feeling it will forever remain “The one that got away…” because it only occurs in a remote part of the Zambezi, in Mozambique, and I don’t have the resources to get there…
Birding obviously requires a certain amount of skill, which you build up over the years. Noticing differences – shape, size, colour – is all-important. Political cartoonists, like myself, rely a lot on jizz. We have to decide which features to select as markers and then stylise them so the character we are lampooning becomes readily identifiable. In birding, you also look for distinguishing features, although not so that you can make a joke out of them. That would be rude.
Sound can help. With difficult species like the Cisticolas I encountered on my walk, it is often the best way to distinguish one bird from another similar-looking one (the Levaillant’s and Rufous-winged Cisticolas, for example). Habitat preference and distribution can also help here, but it becomes difficult when species overlap. Hence, in some instances, the Cisticola’s call is the only way to separate them in the field.
Because of the bewildering variety of calls, it can be hard to remember which one belongs to which bird. It can be absurdly satisfying to be able to put a name to an unfamiliar one.
All birders have their favourite calls. In my case, it is not just the skill or musicality but the associations. It is by no means our best songster, but, for me, there is something incredibly comforting about the Cape Turtle Dove’s repeated refrain “How’s father, how’s father…?” (or, depending on whether you want to be admonished, “Work harder, work harder…”). It takes me back to my childhood days on our smallholding outside of Salisbury (now Harare), which my father named “Dovery” because of it. Their sound was a constant, reassuring feature of the Miombo woodland that surrounded us. They also put on a marvellous spectacle, with the blowing out and deflating of their chests, coupled with the throbbing throat. The doves almost seemed to take an aesthetic pleasure in their own performance. I certainly did.

Many people will choose the Fish Eagle as the bird whose call most captures the spirit of Africa, and it is hard to argue with that. The Black-crowned Tchagra is another one of my favourite songsters, as it was for my brother, who died not long after his farm was taken over in Robert Mugabe’s land grab. Whenever I hear its haunting, evocative call echoing across the veld, I think of him. It has become his ‘spirit bird’. Similarly, as a child, I used to regularly wake at dawn to the melodious, rising crescendo of the beautiful White-browed Robin-Chat (formerly, Heuglin’s Robin, a name I still prefer) coming from the deep undergrowth at the bottom of our garden in Nyanga North. It also rates high in the nostalgia stakes.


Finally, no favourite bird call list would be complete without the Fiery-necked Nightjar, whose plaintive, subtle, piercingly beautiful “Good Lord deliver us….” is one of the characteristic sounds of the African night, and touches a nerve deep inside me which no other bird song does.
With their complex behaviour and the startling feats they are capable of, it is little wonder that so many myths and legends are attached to birds or why we remain so fascinated by them. The more time you spend with them, the more you realise what astonishingly refined creatures they are. As any trip into the outdoors will reveal, they have many more tricks up their sleeves (wings?) besides their ability to fly…

















