Doing the Crocodile Rock.

It is the Thursday before Christmas. I am driving among the ancient rocks of the Nelspruit Batholith (a batholith, for those who have forgotten their school geography, is a large emplacement of igneous rock that forms deep in the earth’s crust) which contains some of the oldest magnetite- granite so far found.

There is something very consoling about this scenery. I feel a connection with it. As I drive fragments of my past come floating back to me. The countryside reminds me of the Matobo Hills, where I went to junior school, many years ago.

There is the same labyrinthine chaos of granite rocks, kopjes, domes and other formations, pushed out of the earth aeons ago. It is like suddenly finding myself in a parallel universe, an echo world.

The road in front of me is dry and dusty and deeply corrugated. The sky above is cloudless and a deep indigo blue. The road goes up, the road goes down, altering my perspective of the surrounding bush-covered hills.

When I stop and wind down my car window to look at a bird I am hit by a blast of furnace- like hot air. That, in itself, is hardly surprising. The temperature outside is hovering on the cusp of forty degrees and because of the high humidity there is nowhere for the sweat to evaporate. I am left trapped in an all-enclosing clamminess.

Because I am in one of my ’embrace the real Africa’ moods I stubbornly refuse to switch on the car’s air-conditioner.

The reason I am here is to visit my sister, Penny, who lives in a small Eco Estate, just off the Uitkyk Road, in the Crocodile Mountain Conservancy. Unlike so many other of the other fashionable “Eco-Estates”, this one feels like the real deal. There are only five houses in it. They are strategically placed to blend in to the terrain and create the illusion of untouched nature.

The Uitkyk Road, Crocodile Mountain Conservancy.

My sister’s house is at the very end of the road which leads, through a pole and thatch-covered gate, in to it. It sits, precariously, on top of a steep slope covered with trees, crammed together so closely they form an almost unbroken roof. The view from the house is wonderful. From the front verandah one looks down over a succession of valleys and stony, rolling hillsides.

Although well-wooded, most of the trees growing on these slopes shed their leaves in winter. The last time I visited they were still in the process of doing this which meant the hills were a carpet of colour, ranging from green to russet-red with varying shades of brown, grey, yellow, orange and ochre in between. It was the blending of these colours that give such depth and richness and texture to the countryside.

Typical granite country – a quick sketch I did on the spot.

This time it it completely different. Good rains had fallen several weeks before. The trees have been quick to respond. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the hills are covered in an apparantly endless variety of tree species of every kind of green.

Immediately below the house the small, oddly-named, Tipperary River (anywhere less like Ireland I can hardly imagine) flows through a narrow gorge of polished rock, weaving its way around great boulders that have tumbled down from the cliffs; or slowing in to deeper green pools under grassy banks.

The Tipperary River, Crocodile Mountain Conservancy.

The vagaries of the weather create extremes. After heavy rains fall in the catchment area, there is the routine excitement of the brown, coffee-like swirl of flood water hurtling through the ravine. It is a wonderful sound to fall asleep to at night.

In winter, however, the river shrinks back to a trickle and then usually dries up altogether except for a few isolated pools that harbour fish with weavers’ nests in the reed beds growing alongside them.

On the other side of the river there is a small, private, nature reserve so there is still a fair amount of game about – kudu, bush-buck, water-buck, impala, wildebeest, baboon and even a few giraffe. The kudu, in particular, have become very tame and often come around to the house, wanting food in winter.

This is python country as well. There are several monster ones living in the rock crevasses that line the bank of the river. Penny has seen one that measures between 4,5 and 5 metres.

A quick sketch I did, in situ, of one of the rocks under which the python has been seen.

It seems fated that my sister should find herself living in the company of these magnificent serpents. She is a Social Anthropologist and part of her PhD thesis was about the role snakes (and mermaids) play in accounts and narratives concerning water divinities in local African belief.

A very wise and knowledgeable lady looking over her beloved, python inhabited, valley. My sister, Dr. Penny Bernard.

The African Rock Python features prominently in these.

In traditional Zulu society, for example, some are believed to possess both mystical and metamorphosing abilities. On occasion the ancestors come to visit houses in their form. Such snakes are seen as the amakhosi, the great ancestors; in this sense they are viewed as intermediaries of God.

The python (and reed-beds) also features in some Zulu origin myths.

I have not seen the python myself but I did once come across the skin of one while climbing over some boulders near the Tipperary river. The ancient Greeks also regarded snakes as sacred; they saw this skin-shedding as symbolic of rebirth and renewal.

Shed python skin, Tipperary River.

On my first morning I sit on the verandah of the guest cottage which juts out in to the canopy of tall trees. From the riverine forest below emanates a whole bouquet of birds-song. I catch the beautiful ‘whee-cheree, cheroo, cheree-cheroo…’ of the Black-crowned Tchagra, the piercing cry of the fish eagle, various other calls.

The verandah of the guest cottage.

The odd thing is that it all coming from the same spot. It takes a lot of hunting but eventually – having resorted to a little vocal spishing – I manage to lure the sound imposter out of his hidey-holes deep inside a jungle of tangled creepers and bush. It a solitary White-browed Robin-Chat (formerly Heuglin’s Robin) spilling his soul in song.

White-browed Robin-Chat.

Unlike my Cape Robins back home who have become very tame and friendly and take a keen interest in everything I do in my garden, he is very shy and secretive, and wary of human contact.

He makes up for this social rectitude in other ways. He is obviously a good listener and a quick learner. He is also a wonderful tune-smith and mimic, storing a way what he hears for future usage.

Each morning he takes all the sounds and songs he has memorised and starts practising and testing and rehearsing them until he comes up with a version he likes.

Once he has honed his repertoire to perfection he uses it to try to get the girl. If he feels a particular song is not working he will often switch tunes or find other ways to make it sufficiently sexy to send his intended in to a swoon.

Quite why he should feel the need to imitate all these other birds is a bit of a puzzle because his own natural call – a loud crescendo of repeated phrases – is one of the most beautiful and evocative in the whole of Southern Africa. I would list it very close to the top of my Ten Most Favourite Bird Calls.

The robin is invariably the first bird to start up each morning and the last one to finish off in the evening. Thereafter his duties are assumed by the nocturnal Freckled Nightjar whose distinctive, dog-like, ‘yip-yip!’ lacks the sheer complexity of the robin’s song but has its own peculiar magic. There is another nightjar who calls in the region and its song is as every bit as beautiful and as evocative as the White-browed Robin-Chat – the Fiery-necked Nightjar. In English its lyrics have been interpreted as “Good Lord Deliiiiiver Us” but that hardly does them justice.

For me its glorious, persistent melody swells the warm summer air and stands out above all. No other bird can match it for sheer haunting beauty, no other bird manages to capture the elusive spirit and feel of the starlit bush at night the way it does. Its call is a hymn, a love song to Africa.

They say that a bird in full song often experience those rewarding chemicals – dopamine and opioids. I don’t know how true that is but the nightjar’s music certainly triggers the same feeling of intense pleasure in me.

There are plenty of other birds about. I don’t even have to go far to see them. Sitting on my front verandah I pick up two specials – an Eastern Nicator foraging on the forest floor below me as I sit drinking my morning cup of tea and a Eurasian Honey Buzzard (the pale, female, form) who comes gliding down the valley and lands in a tall tree, sitting there for a sufficiently long time to allow us to make a proper identification. Then, just in case I didn’t get it right the first time, it flies back again a couple of hours later.

None but a birder can understand the excitement I feel when we identify it.

The Honey Buzzard is a rare summer visitor who flies all the way to Central Africa from its breeding grounds in Central Europe. To get to our beautiful green valley it doesn’t rely, like us lazy humans do, on Google Earth or GPS but makes use of its hippocampus, that neuronal network that helps us orientate in space. It is like his mental map.

The first person to recognise it as a distinct species from the common buzzard was Francis Willughby who, along with his friend, Cambridge tutor John Ray, compiled the ground-breaking, monumental, encyclopaedia Ornithology in 1678.

‘ Honey Buzzard’ is probably one of the most inappropriate of all names because the bird does not, in fact, eat honey. Recent molecular studies also suggest that rather than being a close relative of the common buzzard it may be more closely related to some of the tropical kites.

At this time of the year there is plenty of food about for the birds. The Red Milkwood tree (Mimusops zeyheri) in front of the house is a magnet for them.

The beautiful green pigeon, in particular, loves to gorge on its fruit. So do the equally colourful Purple-crested Turacos. The sunbirds (mostly white-bellied and collared) enjoys its flowers.

It is later in the day. The sun has gone. In the far distance storm clouds are gathering on the horizon. The frogs are in full voice. Grabbing our torches we head down to the darkening pool on the side of which Penny once saw a baby python and above which two nightjar are now hunting.

I love birds; always have but I don’t know much about frogs. Now is my chance to start learning. The young man I am going with is an expert on everything from frogs to Ferraris.

It is a strange experience to enter this dark reptilian underworld. It is like penetrating a highly secret society with its own peculiar set of arcane rites and rules.

The first one we see is the Red Toad, hopping purposely down the same path as us. Maybe he has come to escort us? I feel the excitement of Charles Darwin himself. It is like I am embarking on a momentous Voyage of Discovery.

There is a surprising variety of hawking insects and hunting spiders near or on the water surface or scurrying over the rocks – and, of course, toads and frogs. The noisy chap we heard from the house, whose decibel level is way over the limit, turns out to be the aptly named Raucous Toad.

Amongst the reeds on the edge of a pool we spot a real beauty – a tiny, bright, Painted Feed Frog with alternating green and white stripes running down its back. It looks like it had been fashioned out of glass.

A bit further on we discover two more amphibians. I feel a little embarrased because at first glance it appears we have caught them in flagrante delicto/captus amore faciendi.

It turns out they are not love-making at all but are two completely different species, the one piggy-backing on the other. The one on top is a Flat-backed Toad, the other possibly a Foam Nest Tree Frog. The expert is not sure. Quite what they are up to is anyone’s guess. Maybe it some sort of weird male domination thing. A froggy Donald Trump asserting his manly authority.

We shine our head-torches in to a different pool. A small catfish rises up to the surface, followed, a few seconds later, by a much larger one. There is something a little alien, sinister and slippery about them; their skin looks ghostly and eerily translucent in the moonlight.

With their soulless, dead, eyes and cavernous, whiskered, mouths they don’t look like they have very much in the way of a conscience. I am glad I am not some small creature having to share the pool with them

It is a few nights later. A thin drizzle is falling. Much further down the valley, in Kanyamazame, it sounds like the Battle of the Somme is being fought all over again. In the huge township they are celebrating the arrival of a new decade – 2020.

I have other things on my mind. I am frogging again.

The rocks are wet and we have to tread cautiously to avoid slipping. I still manage to lose my footing and fall. I curse myself for having had the beer and two glasses of red wine beforehand.

On the rocks themselves there seems to be some sort of ‘greet-the -new decade’ frog orgy going on. Wherever we shine our torches there are copulating couples.

Oddly fascinated by all of this feverish froggy fornication on such a seminal calendar date, I snap away with my camera. Next we face the difficult challenge of identifying all the Romeos.

After consultation with a colleague, this is what the wildlife boffin decides the frogs (all of which occurred within a fifty metre radius of the deep pool) are:

Even though I play no real part in the identification process, it is again absurdly exciting to have put a name to something. I especially like the one called the Snoring Puddle Frog. I suspect I may have been one in a previous life…

Back at the house I top up my glass with more red wine and drink a toast to one of the most pleasurable New Year’s nights I have ever had.

Who needs fireworks when you have frogs?

REFERENCES:

Messages from the Deep: Water Divinities, Dreams and Diviners in Southern Africa. PhD Thesis, Penelope Susan Bernard.

The Wonderful Mr Willughby by Tim Birkhead. Published by Bloomsbury Press.

The Wilting Aloe – Cartoons for November and December, 2019.

SUMMARY:

In presenting his mini-budget to Parliament, Finance Minister, Tito Mboweni once again faced the near impossible task of trying to prevent government from spending more than it has, while maintaining what is one of the most redistributive economies in the world. Placing an aloe on his lectern he gave an update: the aloe is not doing well. “Our problem,” he said, “Is that we spend more than we earn.”

The long-running legal drama starring our former president continued with Jacob Zuma now maintaining the Pietermaritzburg high court “misfocused” on the gist of his permanent stay of prosecution application and was biased against him when it dismissed it. Zuma also dodged the latest round of the Zondo commission of enquiry in to state capture claiming he was ill.

For someone who continues to insist on his innocence of all the charges listed against him, Zuma seems to be going to extraordinary lengths to avoid having the opportunity to clear his name in court…

The deluges (including a tornado) that caused widespread damage and death across swathes of KwaZulu-Natal put all thoughts of drought out of most people’s minds. However, agricultural body, AgriSA, forcefully reminded the country of the damage drought has already caused and warned of the peril that exists if the government is not forthcoming with aid.

In the same week this was happening, Australia was hit by some of the worst bush fires on record, another timely reminder of the scary spectre of climate change…

Forcing SAA under was probably not the intention of the unions who went on strike demanding an eight per cent increase but that could well be the result. As Parliament was told the SOE is bankrupt, having run up a debt of over R28billion over the past 13-years. With little prospect of the situation improving there no longer seems any good reason to keep it on life support.

Non-compliance with key regulations as well as lack of accountability and consequence management were blamed for the regression in KZN provincial audit outcomes which saw the province get six qualified opinions for 2018/9, compared to four received in 2017/8. Only the Department of Social Development and the Provincial Treasury managed to score clean audits.

A never before seen affidavit, deposed by a former employee of On-Point Engineering, contains explosive evidence that EFF leader Julius Malema’s extravagant lifestyle was funded with money from Limpopo public coffers. For reasons it has not, to date, made clear the NPA chose to ignore this evidence and dropped the charges against Malema some time ago.

Having assured the public it wouldn’t happen in the near future embattled power utility Eskom once again introduced load-shedding. With the country teetering on recession, the impact of this was expected to be devastating with many companies and businesses predicting a bleak Christmas and a “worst ever” festive period.

Always happy to flog a dead horse I decided to make both my Christmas and New Year cartoons Eskom-related as well…

Out of the Ashes – Birds of Kusane

When William and Karen , the current owners of Kusane Farm, first came up to check out the property that would ultimately become their home it was not looking at its bounteous best. One of the worst fires to hit the KZN Midlands in decades had just swept through the area leaving behind it a black expanse of desolation.

The Kusane house and farm outbuildings had been completely guttered and reduced to a smouldering ruin. Little remained of the once extensive garden. There was hardly a good tree left.

As a result, many of the birds, like the previous owners, had departed. When I first started coming up to visit them at weekends, all I remember seeing is a solitary Amethyst (formerly Black) Sunbird, a pair of Cape Robins, some cheery Bluff-streaked Chat – hopping among the rocks around the side of the house – and a few Village (formerly Spotted-backed) Weavers, still living in their swinging homes amongst the branches.

William and Karen are not ones to shrink from a challenge or let a little adversity stand in their way. Undeterred, they started rebuilding from scratch. Slowly a phoenix emerged out of the ashes.

A very beautiful phoenix too.

While they were busy rebuilding, I took it upon myself to start planting lots of indigenous trees, flowers, aloes and shrubs in the area where a shed had once stood and which they had now been designated as my new home.

As the garden expanded and boomed, so the birds started to return.

The most noticeable – and voluble – increase has been the Village Weaver population. With the arrival of the rains each year our ever-growing flock go in to a frenzy of nest building and egg-hatching. From dawn to dusk you can see them hurtling back and forth chattering excitedly as they construct their wondrously crafted homes – many of which prove useless because, after a cursory inspection, the exacting female declares them to be unsuitable habitation.

Life can be full of thwarted hopes and disappointments when you are a male Village Weaver.

Anxious male Village Weaver – waiting to see if his wife is satified with the new house.

With the weavers came the cuckoos, in particular the Diderick’s Cuckoo, who parasites on the weavers’ nests, driving them in to a protective frenzy. The Red-chested (Piet-my-Vrou) and Black Cuckoos also pass through the garden although they mostly seem to prefer the wooded country down by the river.

On my very first day living up here, sitting in my studio working on my cartoon, I was stunned to see a Jacobin Cuckoo in the Tree Fuchsia (Halleria lucidia) outside the window. It is a bird I more commonly associate with dry bushveld. I saw it exactly a year later in more or less the same spot.

Over the years which have followed, I have grown accustomed to the daily rhythm of the birds lives. In the cold light of dawn they come venturing out looking for food, browsing and scurrying and fluttering about. The food table I have erected in the middle of my lawn is always a scene of restless, unremitting activity with the highly aggressive male Pin-tailed Whydah doing his best to protect his food source – and impress his inscrutable little wife – by constantly trying to drive away the other birds which have gathered there.

The very territorial and aggressive male Pin-tailed Whydah.

Again, it is a thankless task because he is vastly outnumbered and as soon as he moves away the other birds come back.

Sun-up is also the time when the birds do most of their calling (the infernal rooster starts much earlier) and courtship rituals. I especially love hearing the Southern Boubous with their double-call: the cock calling and the female answering with a different tune. Most comforting of all is the endless coo-ing of the Cape Turtle Doves.

My resident male (left) and female Southern Boubou.
Cape Turtle Dove.

Waking up to its familiar “Work harder! Work harder!”, I rejoice in the fact I live in Africa.

The morning mists and our relatively high rainfall (by South African standards anyway) mean that maintaining a garden is not a constant battle as it can be elsewhere in this arid, water-challenged country. Most shrubs and flowers grow relatively easy, a fact which does not go unnoticed by the birds.

Sunbirds with their long curved beaks and quivering wings are always busy in the wild dagga (Leonotis leonorus) bushes and the ever-flowering Cape Fuchsia (Phygelius capensis) I have planted next to the fish pond and (in the winter months) the aloes. So too are the little Cape White-eyes.

Cape White-eye in Cape Fuchsia.

As the garden has grown, our resident Ameythst Sunbird has been joined by others types of sunbird, including the gorgeous Malachite Sunbird with its pencil-long tail. A translucent, iridescent green, as they fly they glitter in the sunlight like some precious sapphire.

Malachite Sunbird in Cape Fuchsia.

In a sense, they are like an eager labour force, helping keep all the plants pollinated.

Besides the boubou and the sunbirds there are two other birds I deem essential for any proper, self-respecting garden: the robin and the thrush. We get the cheerful little Cape Robin and the ever-busy Olive Thrush.

There is one other bird I would also consider adding to this list – a wagtail. Our pair of Cape Wagtails have become very tame, frequently joining me on the verandah when I have my morning cup of coffee. There is something both comical and endearing about their ever-moving, constantly bobbing little bodies, as they parade themselves in front of me.

Cape Wagtail.

My home has also become a home for various other birds. I have a pair of Rock Pigeons nesting on my verandah who never seem to tire of breeding, producing batch after batch of chicks.

My resident pair of Rock Pigeons.

The persistent female Amethyst Sunbird had less luck. First, she tried building her elaborately constructed little nest on both of the air-plants hanging from the beams.

Then she changed her plan. Maybe she wanted more privacy or perhaps she was just not happy with the view but she relocated around the corner and attached her home to the TV satellite dish.

Unfortunately, even though she did manage to hatch her eggs a couple of times, in every instance some mysterious creature either killed the chicks or ripped the nest to shreds.

I also have pair of Red-winged Starlings living around the back of The Barn. They may make an attractive-looking couple but they are also very bold, noisy and aggressive birds and highly protective of their turf. I am often woken up by them in the early hours of the morning banging things on my corrugated-iron roof.

The one year a pair of Cape Sparrows also successfully raised a clutch of chicks on the other end of the verandah to the pigeons’ apartment although, for some reason, they did not return after that even though I still see both birds regularly at my bird feeder.

Brighter than any illustration could ever be, the Black-headed Oriole is another regular in the garden. For a long time there just seemed to be the one. All day you would hear its beautifully liquid song echoing from tree to tree as it tried to attract a mate. Eventually it did just that and then it became an even lovelier duet.

Black-headed Oriole in fig tree outside my bedroom.

Another bird I frequently hear calling from the fringes of the property but don’t always see is the Red-throated Wryneck, a rather odd bird that looks like a cross between a woodpecker and a cuckoo. Its squeaky “kweeek!”, urgent and relentless, is not nearly as melodious as the oriole.

Red-throated Wryneck

Sometimes I find it easier to bird by ear. I often hear the lonely, heart-piercing call of the African Fish Eagle as it passes down the valley on its scheduled flight between the dams (the male who is slightly smaller than the female has a higher pitched call). I keep hoping it will land in a tree up here but so far it never has.

Because we inherited a very old orchard with the farm, we also inherited several species of fruit-eating birds along with it. The two most common of these are the ebullient, ever-cheerful, Black-eyed Bulbul and the comical, clumsy Speckled Mousebird. These two species are definitely the comedians of Kusane.

Then there are the free and independent spirits, who breeze in, hang around for a while and then move on. The beautiful African Hoopoe, with his magnificent crest and odd, dipping flight, is one such bird; so, too, is the small Cardinal Woodpecker who every once in a while I will hear hammering away on some dead branch.

Finally you get the rarities and vagrants.

Working in my garden the one day I was thrilled to see the dainty little Fairy Flycatcher with its distinctive grey, black and white plumage creeping through the undergrowth. Although they are not uncommon in the high-lying areas (and also the Karoo) it is the only time I have seen one here.

At the other end of the spectrum you get the big guys. The one afternoon I was lying on my bed, reading a book when I heard something loud and flappy crashing clumsily in to the topmost branches of the tall fir tree around the back. The moment it started its extraordinary, high-pitched, screaming – just like a baby throwing a tantrum – I knew instantly what it was: a Trumpeter Hornbill.

The day was heavy with mist, so I can only assume it had got separated from the main flock and then got hopelessly lost. Whatever the reason, the resident Fort-tailed Drongo wasn’t having it to stay and immediately started furiously dive-bombing the confused and very distressed hornbill.

Fork-tailed Drongo.

The last I saw of it, the cumbersome bird was still flapping and sailing, labouring and gliding towards the distant Karkloof Hills, closely pursued by the much smaller drongo.

Returning to my book and bed, I offered up a silent prayer of thanks that he has not been able to chase me off the farm – yet…

The Benefits of Travel

I struck the board, and cry’d, No more.

I will abroad.

What? shall I ever sigh and pine?

My lines and life are free; free as the rode,

Loose as the winde, as large as store.

George Herbert The Collar

XXX

I first went abroad in 1974.

There was, of course, nothing unique about my decision to travel. Back then, there were lots of young men who, not wanting to become mere slaves to the establishment, had fled their homes and set off in search of adventure and to try and find themselves.

For me there was another motivation as well.

I had just spent a year doing my National Service and then another year stuck in the District Commissioner’s Office in Wedza. I hadn’t exactly enjoyed either experience. I was tired of feeling trapped. I needed an escape hatch, preferably to a place where I got to make the decisions instead of having them made for me by somebody else.

So I booked a flight to Heathrow. It was a huge relief to be able to discard my personal relationship with both Internal Affairs and the military machine; to feel free of all obligations, and to escape the prevailing political and moral atmosphere.

My brother Pete was waiting for me at the Arrivals section of Heathrow Airport. Like a seasoned traveller he steered me through the labyrinth that is the London Transport System and the next thing I knew I was on a train heading to the small village of Marden in Kent where he and two friends, Doug and Ron, were picking hops and working in the apple orchards.

From my seat on the train I looked out over a skyline of roofs, chimney pots and rows of terraced houses which kept making me think of the Giles cartoons I had pored over as a kid. Used to the harsh, bleached landscape of Rhodesia in the dry season I couldn’t get over how soft, green and luxuriant the countryside was.

Once at the farm, Pete showed me our accommodation. It consisted of a large, silver, corrugated iron shed in which a few old beds had been placed, like a dormitory. Other than that the furnishing were minimal and there was little to keep the cold out.

That afternoon, I joined the others in the field, picking apples. It was a job I took to like a duck to water. Although the days were long and the work often tiring being amongst the fruit trees and watching the English robins – who seemed to take a deep interest in everything we did – induced a feeling of calm bordering on happiness.

I would stop to gaze at the loveliness of the apple blossom when the sun came out after a shower or watch the steam rising off the piles of discarded hops. Every evening, after we had finished work, we would head down to The Mile Bush, a cosy old pub on the corner of the farm, still wearing our gumboots and raincoats and drink pints of Shepherd’s Neame bitter with the other farm workers. It was a routine I loved.

Far from the stresses and strains and oppressive politics of white-ruled Rhodesia I felt obliviously contented, like I had gone to sleep and woken up the next day in a John Keats poem

No longer having to worry about trying to live up to other peoples expectations of me I felt unfettered and free. I felt like I had abandoned my identity and exchanged it for the anonymity of England where I was more than happy to be just one of the rootless millions.

After our job in Kent had finished we all moved up to London, taking rented rooms in South Kensington. I got odd jobs – working in factories, plucking turkeys, sticking labels on coffee bottles and mixing with ordinary Londoners whose world often extended no further than the pub at the end of the street.

October came around and I could see my brother Pete, a farmer, growing restless and unhappy. It was planting season back home. Pete was very much a man of the soil, psychologically programmed to respond to its call.

I wasn’t at all surprised when he, Doug and Ron opted to return.

I wasn’t ready to do that. I was still searching for authenticity and experience. I stayed on.

Keen to make my mark in London, I grew my hair long and took to wearing a Donovan-style cloth cap in a rather unconvincing attempt to show that I had turned my back on my middle class origins and thrown in my lot with the masses. With very little money of my own, my uncultivatedly shabby appearance helped foster the illusion.

I generally avoided hooking up with all the other Rhodesians in London, because I didn’t want to be seen as just another tourist and also because it didn’t fit in with the vagabond image I was trying so assiduously to cultivate.

The one night I did pop in to the Zambezi Bar in Earl’s Court – a popular hang-out for homesick white Rhodesians – in the company a young, blond-haired, Canadian lady I had met who worked as a Bunny waitress in the Mayfair Playboy club.

It was a mistake. All the morose conversation in the bar reminded me of is why I had decided to try and expand my cultural horizons by going abroad in the first place. I kept wondering what they were doing here (although some were obviously draft-dodgers). They didn’t express much interest in anything around them – the art, the architecture, the history or, for that matter, the people. In fact, they didn’t even seem to approve of the country.

I had to get out of the place. I finished my beer and we both bolted for the door.

Moving from South Kensington to Earl’s Court, I ended up sharing a dingy, mouse-infested room which smelt of stale,sad, old smoke with two young English drop-outs. Because we were all broke we were forced to subsist on a diet made up mostly of chip butties – an English speciality which I once heard described as a “deranged, nonsensical, sandwich” – and cheap bottles of cider. After a couple of months of consuming little else, I began to have the same cheesy pallor and hollow-cheeked look of the folk I saw on the tube every day.

This pleased me no end. I was starting to blend in.

Realising I was in one of the great cities of the world I went on a crash culture course, visiting all the galleries and museums. I also went to a lot of plays and shuffled my away around with all the other tourists through Westminster Abbey, The Tower of London, the Victoria Albert Museum, St Paul’s and the like.

Houses of Parliament, London.

I listened to Tchaikovsky’s 1812 overture being played at the Albert Hall and very nearly had a heart attack when the cannon went off just above me. For a terrifying nano-second I thought I was back in the Rhodesian Bush War.

Hoping to gain more “insights”, I did a quick dash through Europe taking in as many of the famous sites (Notre Dame, the Louvre, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Florence, Salzburg, the Red Light District of Amsterdam – I looked but I didn’t touch – the tulip fields of Holland, St Peter’s in Rome) as you could cram into a few weeks. We travelled in an ancient old bus which had a sign, above the windscreen, which said “We are lost but we don’t give a shit!”.

It kind of summed up my mood at the time.

After I had done with Europe, I returned to the City and carried on as before.

Winter arrived. One grim London day I decided I had had enough of the low horizons and grey skies of England and booked a bus trip to Spain where, I confidently expected, the weather would be more to my liking.

It wasn’t. I woke up on the bus on my first day in Spain and looked out the window to see the countryside around us completely blanketed in a thin layer of snow, something I had yet to see in England.

So I pushed on further south. In Algeciras, where I got off the bus, I linked up with a young Australian girl who was on her way to take up a teaching post on Gibraltar. In those days, because of the dispute between England and Spain over the ownership of that enormous, ape-inhabited, chunk of rock, the only way you could get to it was to cross the sea by ferry to North Africa and then catch another boat back.

My new friend was a little worried about making the crossing all on her own so I offered, on the spur of the moment, to accompany her as far as the Moroccan port of Tangiers.

The ferry, that plied its way across the Straits, did not take sail directly to this port but dropped anchor, instead, at Pseuta, a small Spanish enclave on the North African coast. Here, we were lucky enough to cadge a lift with a high ranking local Government official who my companion had struck up a conversation with on the ferry.

He was obviously a man of some importance because the soldiers manning the checkpoints we passed through leapt to attention and saluted whenever he showed them his documents. It made us feel important too.

I spent two days in Tangiers. The city turned out to be a slightly bewildering labyrinthe of a place. Setting off to look for the souk our presence did not go unnoticed.

In Tangiers.

We soon found ourselves besieged by hordes of scruffy, streetwise urchins promising us a “good time”. They were like persistent, irritating, mosquitos following us everywhere.

I quickly grew tired of this so as soon as I had seen my Australian friend off to Gibraltar, I jumped back on the ferry and returned to Algeciras. I still sometimes regret my hastiness because it would have been good to follow the old hippy trail to Rabat, Marrakesh and the Atlas Mountains.

Back in Spain, I headed back up the Costa del Sol, stopping off in Barcelona where I managed to find a cheap pension down in the docklands. This was, of course, long before the 1992 Barcelona Olympics so they hadn’t started sprucing things up yet. The whole area was a wasteland of crumbling warehouses, obsolete factories, railway tracks and dumps. The beaches were fouled with industrial effluent.

It didn’t bother me much. I had always wanted to visit the region which had inspired George Orwell’s classic book about the Spanish Civil Way, Homage to Catalonia. It was here, many also believe, that the seeds were planted for both Animal Farm and the nightmare world of 1984.

I also wanted to see Barcelona’s great buildings especially those constructed by its most famous architect, Antoni Gaudi, the last of the great cathedral builders.

Barcelona.

Feeling pleasantly lonely, I wandered around the streets of the Old City – the Barri Gotic or Gothic Quater – for the next week, taking in the sites and anthropologising. I then turned my eye on myself and was encouraged. I felt my soul was still improving.

Then home to England.

A couple of months later, I was back, this time in the company of an American girl called Monica (my mother’s name), a graduate of Yale who I had met on my first whistle-stop tour through Europe.

We caught a ship from Southampton to Bilbao and then travelled through San Sebastian and Basque territory up into the day-long sunshine of the tableland of Castille. Arriving in Madrid I made a bee-line to the Prado Museum because I had always wanted to see the work of the great Spanish painters – Velazquez, El Greco and Goya. I found it all as wonderful as I had hoped.

At the time of my visit, the country was still under the control of General Franco, the invader from Morocco, who having won the Civil War had swept aside the reformist ideas of the Spaniards and imposed his own form of grim authoritarianism. His long tenure as head of government was still destined to run another year or so although you could sense the growing unhappiness with the ageing dictator.

The country was in an edgy state and feelings were running high, perhaps hardly surprising when you consider the thousands of his opponents who had been abducted, murdered and buried in unmarked graves that are still being discovered.

I actually saw the Caudillo driving in a cavalcade of limousines through the streets of Madrid with the US President, Gerald Ford. As a gesture of solidarity with the working classes – and in homage to my literary hero, George Orwell, who had fought against Franco – I did not wave.

Despite the obvious opposition to his rule, the people of Spain never did rise up and overthrow Franco. Instead they waited until he died in 1975 and then brought in parliamentary democracy.

Not that I allowed any of this to dampen my own mood. As we travelled, I was re-reading my copy of Laurie Lee’s As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning, a book which held enormous appeal for a rootless young man like myself. It had been one of the reasons behind my decision to journey to Spain.

I got a much better feel of the country this time around. I found myself entranced by the three old Moorish cities of Seville, Cordoba and Granada. With their intriguing mix of both Islamic and Catholic Christian influences, they captured the romantic, sun-burned essence of Spain; their easy going lifestyle delighted me.

The other city that ensnared me in its web was Cadiz, right at the southern-most corner of Spain where the Atlantic rollers come in.

Walking its streets, history assaults you from every angle. Thought by some to be the oldest city in Europe it was founded by the Phoenicians in 1100BC. It later became a Roman naval base but its real boom period came with the discovery of the Americas with Columbus sailing from this port on his second and fourth voyages.

I quickly developed a fondness for its sherry taverns and the slightly seedy, down-at-heel, feel of the old town whose once stately architecture reminds you of the important sea port it had been.

Back in London, I moved from one menial factory job to another but eventually managed to obtain slightly more rewarding employment working for a company that was doing liquidation work on a large travel company that had just collapsed in a mass of adverse publicity. I also found a lovely old flat in Streatham, in South London.

View from my bedroom window, Steatham.

It was far superior to anything I had lived in up until that point. I shared it with a New Zealander who had a job at Harrods. As a birthday gift he gave me a special Harrods cheque made out for the sum of a million pounds but did not sign it. I used to wave it around whenever I wanted to impress someone. I kept it for years until I lost it in one of my many moves.

There was also an opera singer living in our block of flats who we became friendly with. Being from the boondocks I had never met one before.

Every morning I used to wake up to the sound of him doing his throat exercises in the room directly below mine. It reminded me of the roosters back home on the farm.

I was beginning to feel like I had achieved something. I was no longer the raw colonial boy of before; I had learnt a lot of culturally useful things and was well on my way to becoming an urban sophisticate, a man of the world.

I felt at home in the city. It was more than just the museums and the famous architecture, it was about the conversations on the bus, dropping in to the local pub, walking in the parks and exploring the countryside outside of London.

It was also about meeting my English relations for the first time and discovering how much I liked them. By getting to know them I felt I was getting to better understand my mother whose past had always been something a mystery to me. In turn this gave me more of an insight in to my own nature.

I would have been content to stay on indefinitely but I had promised my brother, Pete, I would return for his wedding in Rhodesia.

The plane I boarded was half-empty and it seemed strange to me that some of my fellow passengers were also heading home as well; they had that half-resigned, half-expectant look of people soon to see familiar sights and familiar faces again and who were equally unsure about what lay ahead.

Stepping onto the tarmac at Salisbury Airport and feeling the harsh glare of the African sun on my face once more, I tried to convince myself I was glad to be home but it was hard to escape the feeling I had returned not because I wanted to but because I was being pulled back, yanked by the past.

The next thing I knew I had returned to my starting point, the army, being yelled at all over again. The message they were intent on ramming down my throat was that I must obey orders and not question authority. Or else…

No longer the master of my own fate I began to wonder if going abroad had taught me anything at all…

The Lights go out Again: Cartoons for September and October, 2019

SUMMARY:

International concern continued to mount as thousands of fires broke out in Brazil, many in the world’s biggest rain forests, sending clouds of smoke across the region and pumping alarming amounts of carbon in to the world’s atmosphere. This was followed, shortly afterwards, by the unfolding devastation caused by Hurricane Dorian as it swept through the Bahamas and the eastern US seaboard, leaving thousands homeless and many dead.

None of this appeared to make any impression on US President Donald Trump, who continued on his quest to repeal the country’s environmental protection laws.

In a week best forgotten, South Africa’s international image took a huge dent as a wave of xenophobic attacks swept through the country. At the same time thousands of men and women all over South Africa took to the streets to signify unity and disgust against the ongoing violence and abuse against women and children.

There was slightly more encouraging news on my door step. Having got rid of the mayoral team for Msunduzi, the ANC next ordered the City’s top brass to act on officials implicated in graft. Seeing is, of course, believing but one can but hope…

In response to widespread protests across the country, President Cyril Ramaphosa announced that R1,1Billion will be redirected to be used in the fight against gender-based violence and femicide. A firmer line certainly appeared necessary. As punishment for assaulting a female lecturer, the University of KwaZulu-Natal, in its wisdom, decided merely that the offending student should step down from his position as SRC president and be given a suspended sentence barring him from the university for a limited period.

In Britain, Prime Minister Boris Johnson suffered a huge blow to his premiership after the Supreme Court ruled that his five-week suspension of Parliament was unlawful. Seemingly undeterred, Johnson would go on to taunt his rivals, on his return to Parliament, goading them to either bring down his government or get out of the way and allow it to deliver Brexit.

Back in South Africa, the government continued with its plans to pass a National Health Insurance (NHI) Bill which would provide quality universal health care in South Africa. Although good in intention, the inconvenient truth, in the view of many of its critics, is that even with the most conservative assumptions the country simply doesn’t have the tax base to support the promises that have been tabled.

While Pietermaritzburg choked on the toxic fumes spewing from its burning dump, the MEC for Environmental Affairs, Nomusa Dube-Ncube, huffed and puffed about ‘how to penalise those found to be in breach with the environmental laws”. She didn’t need to look far, the New England Road landfill site being a testament to the egregious dereliction of City Hall. Her own ministry bore some responsibility, too, for not fulfilling its oversight role.

Eskom’s ‘no more black-out’ promises turned out to be yet more hot air when they abruptly re-introduced load-shedding; a move which caused widespread public anger. With this spectre continuing to hang over the country the chances of the economy growing significantly appear slight.

The double resignation of the opposition Democratic Alliance’s senior leaders, Mamusi Maimane and federal chair Athol Trollope – which followed on from the earlier departure of City of Johannesburg mayor, Herman Mashaba – left the party in disarray and deeply divided. Their resignations appear to have been sparked by the return of former party leader, Helen Zille, who had been elected federal party chair. Speculation was rife that more resignations and defections would follow.

Roughing it in the Bush in South Africa and Canada

Sunset over the Langeberg. Looking towards Swellendam.

The sun was slanting away behind me sending long thin shadows down the slopes of the Langeberg as I drove past the sign post to Groot Vader’s Bosch.

I had jetted in to Cape Town from Durban that morning on a return pilgrimage to the farm, near Swellendam, where my ancestors, the Moodies, had first settled after their departure from the Orkney Islands, way back in the early 1800s. Ostensibly the purpose of my visit was to celebrate an important milestone birthday in my life with family and friends.

This was not, however, the only object of my journey.

I wanted to know more about the Moodies. I wanted to get a glimpse in to their lives and their thoughts and their feelings. I wanted to experience the sublime landscape they had settled in and try and see it through their eyes as well as my own.

The older I get the more fascinated I become with this stuff. It gives me a link, however tenuous, with my past and a society in some ways like ours, in other respects manifestly different.

On the trail of the Moodies – various family members and friends. Picture courtesy of Craig Scott.

I suspect there was another motive too. Maybe it was because, when the whole world seems under threat, it feels comforting to escape backwards.

Of course, things were not necessarily any safer or better back in those days. You only have to read any contemporary account of life in nineteenth century South Africa to realise they, too, faced their own peculiar set of challenges.

There were, for example, none of the comforts of modern travel. The sea voyage from Britain to Cape Town was a stomach-churning, gruelling, ordeal in those leaky, old, wooden, wave-tossed, sail boats, especially for those of a delicate constitution. In a letter home, dated August 1775, the Hon. Sophia Pigot (whose daughter would go on to marry an ancestor of mine) wrote “Lud! How weary one grows of salted meat. And of the Ocean too, I swear I am enamoured even of this monstrous queer-shaped Mountain flat as a Board after near four months of nothing but Water on every side”.

And if you were travelling on to India, like Sophia was, you still faced many more exhausting months at sea. The possibility of getting shipwrecked was something else you had to factor in to your calculations…

India was not, however, my area of concern. On this trip I wanted to follow up on a story which I had just scratched the surface of and which involved another ancestor of mine: John Wedderburn Moodie whose arrival in South Africa, exactly 200-years ago, I wanted to celebrate along with my own birthday. Even though I am descended from his elder brother, Benjamin, I have always felt a strange emotional bond with John Wedderburn.

Reading his book, Ten Years in South Africa I kept seeing bits of his character in myself. We even looked vaguely alike. In his struggle to create a new life on the African frontier, I also saw echoes of my parent’s attempts to tame their own wilderness back home in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe).

Ten Years in South Africa is a delight to read. It is one of those books that appear as fresh and vivid now as on the day it was published. John was a gifted, observant, writer; intelligence and kindness go hand in hand with a keen sense of humour and a sharp – even satirical – eye.The book is full of interesting vignettes and insights in to the South Africa of the time.

Illustration from Ten Years in South Africa. Falling foul of an elephant.

While he obviously shared some of the prejudices of his class and era, he seems to have also possessed an instinctive feeling for the other side, displaying an almost anthropological interest in the country and its people which further endeared him to me.

John had originally joined his brother at Groot Vader’s Bosch in 1819. He was clearly taken with his new home among the mountains.

In front of the old, thatched, Dutch-style house, beyond a trim garden shaded by some towering trees, several fields of lush, green pasture-land shelved gently down to a small spruit concealed behind a wild tangle of briers, shrubbery and trees. Upstream the country grew increasingly hilly until, through a narrow cleft, the jagged blue outline of the Langeberg suddenly soared in to view.

Standing there, the day before my own birthday, I could easily see why the countryside had appealed to a man of John’s romantic sensibilities:

As may be supposed, amid scenes of such novelty and attraction to a young mind, many weeks elapsed before I felt much disposed to apply myself to any serious occupation. My brother, whose zest for the amusements of the country was renewed from sympathy, and not a little from the pleasure of showing his own proficiency in the language and manners of the colony, cordially entered in to my feelings, and scarcely a day passed that we did not ride out on some shooting excursion among the hills...”

They also paid courtesy calls on some of their Dutch neighbours, including one old Afrikaner towards whom John adapts a teasing, ironic tone:

Among the neighbours who we visited in the course of our rides in the vicinity of Groot Vader’s Bosch was an old man of the name of Botha. His house stood in a plain surrounded on all sides by high hills; and in front, towards the mountains, a scene met the eye which for wild and savage magnificence could hardly be exceeded in nature…Never was a man less live to the enjoyment of such scenery than Martinus Botha; nor could he conceive what pleasure we experienced in our contemplation. All that he knew or cared for was, that he had a constant run of water for his mill; but whether it came from a romantic chasm, or from a muddy lake, was to him a matter of the greatest indifference.”

A scene met they eye which for wild and savage magnificence could hardly be exceeded in nature…View from Groot Vader’s Bosch, looking in opposite direction to Swellendam.

Always on the look out for new opportunities, Benjamin and his two brothers would later trek up to the Eastern Frontier. Sir Rufane Donkin, who was Acting-Governor of the Cape in the absence of Lord Charles Somerset, had granted them land in the ceded territory between the Beka and Fish rivers, as well as a stake in the proposed new settlement of Fredericksburg which was to be situated just north of the present day Peddie.

When Somerset returned he took umbrage to these plans which had been made without his blessing and conflicted with his own ideas for the region. He immediately scuppered them.

By way of compensation the Moodie brothers were granted three farms in the Zuurveld, just south of the Bushmen’s River, namely: Long Hope (Benjamin), Kaba and Groot Vlei (John and Donald).

Kaba, the southernmost-property, is situated in a long, cigar-shaped valley which runs diagonally down to the sea. Standing on the apron of land between two hills, the turf as thick and spongy as a tended lawn, the two brothers could not believe their luck at having stumbled on this happy patch of ground. They were quick to appreciate its agricultural worth:

I have never met with any soil bearing such indisputable tokens of fertility as that of the Kaba, as this alluvial valley is called…” John enthused, “The level bottom was everywhere covered with rich vegetable mould, from one to three feet thick, containing land and sea shells in considerable quantities…Highly delighted with the appearance of this rich but lonely spot, we returned through the wood the same way we came, guiding ourselves by the tracks of our horses.”

The Kaba.

Groot Vlei, their other property, lies just to the north of this valley. Running parallel to the coastline between a sheltering ridge of hills on the one side and the large, active, Alexandria dune field on the seaward side, it consists of a series of wave-cut platforms which form a staircase-like feature down to the sea. As the sea-level has dropped relative to the land so the water table has dropped with it, leaving the whole valley dry except during rain.

Groot Vlei

Because of this problem John and Donald elected to build their home at Kaba which they nostalgically renamed Hoy after the island in the Orkney’s they had come from (it has since reverted to its original name) where there was a more plentiful supply of running water.

For a while the two brothers farmed together but then Donald began to spend more and more time away. The reason for his continued absences soon became apparent. While on a trip inland he had met and fallen in love with Eliza Sophia Pigot, daughter of one of the principal 1820 settlers. The two were married in 1824.

Thereafter Donald gave up farming, making use of his new family connections to secure the position of magistrate and Government Resident at the mouth of the Cowie river. In 1842 he and his family moved to Natal where he entered a career in politics eventually rising to the position of Colonial Secretary under Martin West, Natal’s first Lieutenant-Governor.

With Donald gone, John soldiered on alone first at Kaba and then Groot Vlei, to which he moved because he considered it a healthier spot.

Here he lived what he described as “a kind of Robinson Crusoe-life”. Separated by many miles from his nearest English-speaking neighbours, his farming operations limited by a lack of capital and the distance from the markets, the loneliness eventually got to him. Hungering for companionship he decided to return to England to look for a wife.

In England he met and married Susanna Strickland, one of six daughters in a close-knit, genteel, literary, if not very well-off Suffolk family who could have stepped out of the pages of a Jane Austen novel. With no career prospects in England, John was keen to return to Africa but his new bride had been put off by all his tales of lions, elephants and snakes and so the two eventually opted to settle in Canada, a place where the ever-optimistic John hoped “my exertions will meet with greater success”.

A young Susannna Moodie.

The reality was altogether different.

The most ‘English’ land had already been taken and so they were forced to head further north. The Canada they encountered here, in 1832, was a land of vast, gloomy, almost impenetrable forests broken up by swamps, rocky outcrops and clearings created by forest fires. In its own way it was every bit as wild and lonely as the African bush he had left behind.

The winters were bitterly cold and often the only sound they could hear in the icy dead of night was the howling of wolves. From the start their life was one long, exhausting struggle to survive in a harsh, unforgiving climate.

Susanna’s background, in particular, had hardly prepared her for such a life. She was painfully aware of her own inexperience, she made countless mistakes. Watching her trying to make the best of it, there must have been times when John longingly recalled the magnificent scenery and more agreeable climate of Groot Vader’s Bosch.

Eventually, like other rainbow-chasers before them, the Moodies would abandon the farming life and return to the comparative comforts of the streets.

Susanna Moodie would go on to become a Canadian literary icon. Her book Roughing it in the Bush, which described her experiences in the bleak north, is considered a classic. She and her sister, Catherine, are also the subject of author Charlotte Grey’s double biography Sisters in the Wilderness: The Lives of Susanna Moodie and Catherine Parr Trail which won the 2000 Libris award and became a national best-seller.

Among Susanna Moodie’s other admirers is Margaret Atwood, the author of a Handmaid’s Tale, who contributed an introduction to the 1986 edition of the book. Placing her with three other women writers, who were the first to produce much of anything resembling literature in Upper Canada, Attwood shrewedly observes that:“If Catherine Par Traill with her imperturbable practicality is what we would like to think we would be under the circumstances, Susanna Moodie is what we secretly suspect we would have been instead.”

Atwood also published a book of poetry, in 1970, titled The Journals of Susanna Moodie in which she adopted the voice of Moodie and attempted to imagine and convey Moodie’s feelings about life in the Canada of her era. It is regarded by many as her most fully realised volume of poetry and one of the great Canadian and feminist epics.

Back in the present, I decided I would pay my own little homage to John and his kin by immersing myself in the water – stained to the colour of a dark, red wine by all the fynbos it had passed through – of the same spruit he had described so lovingly in his book. It was icy cold. One dip and I felt my skin goosepimpling riotously.

Me – trying to purify my soul. Picture courtesy of Craig Scott.

I didn’t mind. There was something quite magical about the experience. I felt like I was being baptised in some sort of purifying, healing, sacred pool.

Standing there, shivering, in that hallowed spot, under the lowering majesty of the Langeberg range I felt a special linking of the spirits – that of the land, John Wedderburn’s and mine….

GALLERY:

Some more scenes from Groot Vader’s Bosch:

Below are some pics of us celebrating my birthday, as well as the 200th anniversary of the arrival of John Wedderburn Moodie in South Africa. The party was held at Honeywood Farm which adjoins Groot Vader’s Bosch and also belongs to the Moodies. While I was there I managed to spot some unusual birds as well (the theme of the celebration was Birds of a Feather):

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Burrows, Edmund H – Overberg Outspan.

Burrows, Edmund H – The Moodies of Melsetter.

Miller, Maskew – Dark Bright Land.

Moodie, John Wedderburn – Ten Years in South Africa.

The Gardening Bug

You know you are getting a little long in the tooth when you start referring to your youth as “back in those days” – as if they were, somehow, inherently different to the present. In some ways they were.

For a start, the country I was born in had a different name and we were still living in the ‘British Colonial Era’, an era now rapidly becoming distant history. Because we lived before the modern age of mass consumerism our attitude to the subject of food wasn’t quite the same either.

Waste was frowned on so we were more careful about what we did with what we ate. We planned ahead. We paid attention to the little things. We made the most of what we had and were thankful for what we got.

Thrifty to a fault, my parents, for example, did not believe in paying good money for what we could produce or grow ourselves. Because of this, one of their first priorities when we moved out to our farm, Nyangui, in Nyanga North, was to establish a vegetable garden. From its unpromising, heavy clay soils Devite, our gardener who had come with us from Salisbury (now Harare), would do his best to coax cabbages, cauliflower, spinach, radish, carrots, lettuces, rhubarb, beans, peas, onions, asparagus, strawberries, gooseberries etc.

Our garden at Nyangui. Veg garden in front, house and flower garden (concealed) behind. Mt Muozi in background.

I also planted lots of fruit trees including citrus, guavas, peach and mangoes. Later, I would go on to create my own vineyard on the other side of the river.

Bent on self-sufficiency, we would further supplement the table by keeping chickens for eggs and for eating and a small herd of dairy cows which Devite’s other duty was to milk. The manure they provided was, in turn, used to fertilise our garden.

We were practising permaculture before the term was even thought of.

I think my mother would have disapproved of today’s throwaway society. Bought up in an era of war-time rationing and austerity, she did not believe in letting anything go to waste. Everything that could not be used immediately had to be preserved.

Our bathroom doubled up as a pantry with shelf upon shelf packed solid with bottled fruit and vegetables, pickles, home-made jams etc. Some of these bottles would remain unopened for years.

Besides growing our own fruit (mostly sub-tropical) we also had easy access to the Nyanga orchards. My father quickly became friends with Bud Payne, who was in charge of the Nyanga Experimental Station. He kept us well supplied with the most delicious, mouth-watering, deciduous fruit and charged us next to nothing for it.

Maybe my taste buds have dulled down over the years but the fruit you buy in the shops these days just doesn’t seem to have the same taste it did back then (although I suspect it may have to do something with the fact that the fruit is now mostly picked before it is properly ripe and then kept in cold storage). There also seem to be fewer varieties available – what has happened, for example, to all the Muscat types of grape with their excitingly aromatic taste? Is it that these particular species just don’t produce enough fruit and are therefore deemed economically unsuitable?

With so much modern fruit carefully bred to appeal to consumers reared on a sugary diet, I even find myself wondering if it is as nutritious as it used to be?

Busy as she always was there was one other thing my mother always found time to do – create and maintain a flower garden. She was quintessentially English in this respect, believing that wherever she went a large, well-tended garden was an essential part of the family.

The one she designed at Nyangui sprawled over the side of the hill near the front our house and contained a mixture of exotic and indigenous plants. It was watered by the same furrow that fed our hydraulic ram.

On my walks across the countryside I would always be on the lookout for orchids and wild lilies and aloes and other wild flowers I could bring home for her.

My close relationship with the earth changed when I decided to become a city-dweller. I stopped growing my own food or raising it in the form of an animal or a bird. Instead I started going to the place the food is – mostly the local supermarket

I didn’t hoard stuff like my mother and father did in the event of what they liked to call “a rainy day”. I lost my connection with the dirt and the dust.

Life has a funny habit, though, of not letting you forget your roots.

In 2017 I found myself living on a farm overlooking the Karkloof. I suddenly had the two things my adult life had previously lacked – time and lots of land. The temptation was too great to resist. I felt that old familiar stirring. My gardening bug was back!

The gardens I created weren’t exact carbon copies of those of my youth. There was a slight shift in emphasis.

Unlike the reckless, uncaring, denialist-in-chief who sits in the Oval Office I do believe in climate change – or at least I am not willing to take the chance it is all a hoax. I wanted to do my bit to counter it. I planted lots of indigenous trees on the hillside above my house – stinkwood, bushwillow, yellowwood, sneezewood, boer-bean, wild pear, cat thorn, knobwood, tree fuschia, fever trees, paper-barked thorn, sweet thorn and a lot more besides.

I wanted to create a light ecological footprint, as the Greens folk say.

Probably the greatest difference between now and then was that, for the first time in my life, I decided to venture in to my mother’s domain by creating a full-scale flower garden (rather than just having a few pot plants scattered on my verandah). Taking my cue from her I tried to make it as natural and informal as possible blending the plants and shrubs and flowers in with the copious amounts of rock we have (mostly dolerite) scattered all over the property.

My flower garden

In addition to the indigenous trees, I put in lots of aloes (including Aloe ferox, marlothi, cooperii and arborscens) to give colour to the garden in winter and provide a food source for the sunbirds and other nectar-lovers. The owners of Kusane farm, William and Karen, also built a few ponds, in one of which I put some Banded Tilapia (Tilapia sparrmanii) which Michael, the farm manager had caught in a local dam.

Black-headed Oriole in Aloe ferox.

There were other areas in which my approach to gardening underwent a fundamental change.

When we started farming in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), the age of full blown pesticides had just arrived. Not knowing any better I happily sprayed the muck all over my vines and fruit trees.

The effect of these poisons on humans – and the whole environment for that matter – was, of course, not fully understood back in those days (yes! I’ve said it again!).

Now I know better. I am aware of the dangers and avoid using them. This was another reason I wanted to grow my own vegetables. I wanted to be sure I was not shovelling carcinogens and other poisonous chemicals down my gullet.

My first onion crop.

For similar reasons, I also chose not to use inorganic fertilizer but instead made use of all the manure produced by the chickens and William and Karens two sheep, Harriet and Mara.

The Kusane hens – examining the effects their manure has on plant growth.

It has been a lot of hard work but I have found it very satisfying, even therapeutic.

Although I haven’t got around to bottling any fruit just yet, I like to think my parents, if they were alive, would approve….

Looking for Connections at Groot Vader’s Bosch

As a child growing up in the late fifties and early sixties, I remember being told stories about my Scottish ancestors, the Moodies. At the time they didn’t have much meaning for me. My youthful eyes and mind were saturated with the world I saw immediately around me. The family tree could wait until later.

Later came, sooner than expected. Suddenly those stories began to gain resonance. I guess it is an age thing. When you are a child knowing who fits in where or how you got from there to here is of no real consequence.

That changes as you grow older. Suddenly aware that time is breathing down your neck, you start feeling this urge to go back and delve in to the past, to rediscover your roots and to explore your ancestry in all its intricate twists and turns.

It is certainly a subject which appears to have occupied my sister Penny’s mind, perhaps because she is a Social Anthropologist with an interest in ancestor belief. While lecturing at Rhodes University, in Grahamstown, she did some research in to our family line and discovered the location of the farm where the Moodies had first settled when they arrived in the Western Cape.

How they got to be there happened like this. In 1815 Benjamin Moodie, the eldest son of James, the 9th Laird of Melsetter on the Orkney Islands, had inherited the family manor house and estate and, with it, all the accumulated family debts. There seemed no way of extricating himself from this financial mess other than by selling off the ancestral seat. This he reluctantly decided to do.

The ancestral seat of the Moodies at Melsetter, Isle of Hoy, Orkney Islands. Picture courtesy of Penny Bernard.

Having performed this sorrowful duty he felt the need to make a fresh start. Casting his his eyes around for a new country to light out to he settled on the Cape of Good Hope because it seemed “the most likely colony in which he could attain an independent livelihood with a less violent alteration in his habits than might be expected of most persons.”

Benjamin arrived in the Cape full of ideas on how to create a new society on the empty land. In his mind he seems to have imagined a reborn feudal Scotland rising out of the dry African veld with himself restored to his rightful role of Lord of the Manor.

It didn’t turn out quite like that.

No sooner had he landed then all his grandiose plans began to unravel. Most of the 200-odd artisans he had bought over with him to form the nucleus of his new community promptly deserted him, the help he had countered on receiving from the government was not forthcoming and his business partner let him down. For their part local Cape community greeted his whole emigration scheme with bemused scepticism.

There was something rather romantic and audacious and wildly impractical about Benjamin Moodie’s dream, so when Penny announced that she intended to make a journey to the farm on which he settled in the Overberg and asked if I would like to join her I signed up on the dot.

Captain Benjamin Moodie, 9th Laird of Melsetter, Orkney Islands.

On one level my pilgrimage – if it can be called that – was undertaken for my parents, two pioneering individualists in their own right. I wanted to go where they had been unable to go, stand where they had never stood and then bring back some sort of relic or memento to prove that I had honoured their memory (in the end, I settled for a bottle of farm honey).

Tumbled cloud occupied much of the sky as we set out from Cape Town, with rain threatening. For much of our journey we found ourselves chasing a large rainbow which arched over the road like some sort of welcoming celestial escort. Penny was quick to see the significance: “It’s the ancestral spirits come to guide us home!”. Even I, a man of no fixed faith or conviction, wanted to believe this was true.

Back in 1817 the journey from Cape Town to the farm had been a long, hot, dusty, arduous, one, taking many days and involved scaling, on horseback, the ragged peaks of the Hottentot’s Holland mountain range. Today it take three-hours on the N3.

Groot Vader’s Bosch (literally “Grandfather’s Wood”. It was named in honour of Roelof Oelofse who owned the land in 1723), where Benjamin Moodie first settled, is situated about 25 kilometres east of Swellendam on the slopes of the Langeberg. John Wedderburn Moodie, who followed his elder brother out to South Africa, described this last leg of the journey in his book Ten Years in South Africa

Our course skirted the base of these mountains which in height, as well as beauty of form, exceeded anything we had yet witnessed in African scenery. I had already noticed the progressive improvement in the verdure of the country the further we advanced eastwards. The tract between Swellendam and Groot Vader’s Bosch suddenly assumed a new character; and the grass that clothed the narrow valley between the mountains and the lower range of hills to the right of the road, though far inferior to that of our English pastures, was of a fresher green and a more succulent description than any we had yet seen.

The Langeberg. View towards Swellendam.

As we crossed over the farm boundary I could feel a sudden heightening of my own emotions. An emigrant to South Africa myself, I had often felt short of roots and reasons. Coming to Groot Vader’s Bosch was my way of trying to find a point of connection. I hoped to lay a few old ghosts to rest – and perhaps stir up a few new ones – and come to terms with my own belated movement south.

Benjamin Moodies’ farm originally consisted of over 20 000 acres of land and stretched clear to the top of the Langeberg. Over the years it has, however, been subdivided and parcelled off among his descendants while other parts have been sold off to stave off the creditors.

Through a peculiar accident of geology, the upper portions are covered by a thick pelt of indigenous forest, a characteristic which renders it quite distinct from the rest of the range which is mostly treeless. The ready supply of timber made it a very attractive destination for the early Trek Boers. If you hunt around you can still find the remains of their simple, sun-baked clay brick houses, some dating back to the 1720s.

Now protected, this forest – the largest west of Knysna – forms part of the Groot Vader’s Bosch Reserve and Wilderness Area and is, among other things, a popular destination for birders. The Knysna Woodpecker, Victorin’s Warbler, Cape Siskin and Orange-bellied Sunbird all occur here.

The Langeberg at Groot Vader’s Bosch. The indigenous forest is in the valley below.

Penny had arranged for us to stay on Honeywood Farm a sub-division of the original estate – whose present owner, John Moodie, keeps bees and cattle, as well as renting out holiday cottages. She had put in a special request to him that we be allowed to stay in Quince Cottage because its name reminded her of our mother, Monica.

John, himself, turned out to be the most obliging of hosts, taking time off to show us around the farm and arranging for us to visit the original Groot Vader’s Bisch homestead on the next door farm which belonged to his cousin, Keith.

His father, then a remarkably sprightly 92-year old who everybody simply referred to as “The General”, still lived on the farm at that stage.
An interesting person in his own right, he had once served as SA Army Chief of Staff and as a military attaché in Switzerland. The treasured family heirlooms had been entrusted to his care.

These included a “silver headed double gilt and richly ornamented Turkish scimitar, stiletto and a Field Marshall’s baton of some quality and style” (Burrows) presented to James, Seventh Laird of Melsetter, by a grateful King Charles of Spain for his role in relieving the siege of Diena during the Spanish War of Succession. There is also the original letter of commendation which King Charles sent to Queen Anne telling her of James services.

Another treasured possession was a large studio portrait of the venerable James, executed on orders of the Queen herself by the royal court painter. With his this, aquiline features, I could see a strong family resemblance between him and “The General”.

The gathering clouds eventually disgorged themselves during the night bringing much needed relief after a long, dry, spell, in the district. I rose early the next morning and went for a walk. On my right the mountains stretched off in to the blue distance. Above them ragged slivers of light cut through the clouds; below them the whole Swellendam Valley was laid out like a relief map in brilliant acrylic colours.

When John Wedderburn Moodie came riding up this valley he had also been enraptured by the scenes that greeted him, describing, in poetic detail, how he had encountered numerous groups of Khoikhoi maidens bathing in the tree-lined pools along the river.

The stream which caught JW Moodie’s fancy…

There were no such scenes to greet us when we followed the same river but our first view of the house in which Benjamin lived was, however, no less exciting for that.

Built in the latter half of the 18th century by Jacobus Steyn, Groot Vader’s Bosch is reputed to be the oldest original farmhouse still standing in tthe Overberg. In a departure from the norm it was built without the usual elaborate end-gables, so typical of the period and so beloved by generations of South African landscape painters. It is a distinction it shares with only two other buildings in the district – the famous Drostdy in Swellendam and Westfield, Benjamin Moodie’s other property near Port Beaufort which he built in 1820 and which he modelled on Groot Vader’s Bosch..

Groot Vader’s Bosch. Front view.

Constructed largely from local materials, it was a house built to last; to be handed down to grandchildren to grow up in and farm in turn. Its posts, beams and floorboards came from the hardwood forests in the nearby hills, its roof was shaggily thatched with local grass, the mud bricks for its walls manufactured on site.

Despite its strictly utilitarian character design, it is still an imposing building, one which must have seemed a worthy successor to the old manor house the Moodie’s left behind in Scotland.

Inside the old co-existed convivially with the new. Although there were plenty of reminders of its history there was none of that self-conscious reverence for the past you get in some stately old homes. This was still a working house on a working farm and exuded a warm, comfortable, unassuming, lived-in feel.

Groot Vader’s Bosch. Side view.

In the front of the house, beyond a trim garden shaded by some towering trees, several fields of lush pasture-land shelved gently down to a small spruit concealed behind a wild tangle of briers. Upstream the country grew increasing broken and hilly until, through a narrow cleft, the mountains soared in to view.

Only a few metres from the house is a long, low-roofed sprawling where they milk their herd of dairy cows. As we rounded the building we were met by a scurry of wings: swallows had built their mud nests under the eaves. Some of them looked like they had been there as long as the dairy which is even older than the main house.

Dairy cows. Groot Vader’s Bosch.

In Benjamin Moodie’s time there had evidently been been an orchard and a vineyard which yielded “seven or eight leaguers of indifferent wine, and about a leaguer of tolerable brandy”. Above the house there is a little hilltop cemetery in which generations of Moodies lie buried.

Later, back at Quince Cottage, I wandered outside under the clear night sky and thought about the happy impulse which had brought me here. Although this was my first visit there was a familiarity about the surroundings I found slightly disconcerting. Perhaps it was because the mountains seemed to echo the ones I had grown up amongst in Nyanga; perhaps it had something to do with a deeper, collective, memory. I wasn’t quite clear myself.

Whatever the answer was to this conundrum I was glad I had come. It was good to be able to add a bit of flesh to the bare bones of family history; to have gone back and seen where our African adventure started…

Footnote: my family is descended, on my father’s mother’s side, from Benjamin’s first-born son, James. For some reason, lost in the mists of time, he was disinherited which meant Groot Vader’s Bosch was inherited by the second son and was passed down to his descendants.

Remembering Reg – A Tribute to my Father, Wing Commander R.N.Stidolph DFC

My father, Wing Commander Reginald Neville Stidolph, in RAF.

QUOTE: I could ask, ‘Why risk it?’ as I have been asked since, and I could answer, ‘Each to his element.’ By his nature a sailor must sail, a flyer must fly.

Beryl Markham on why she flew across the Atlantic to America (West With the Night)

xxx

During my teenage years, when we were living in the back of beyond, in Nyanga North, my father was seldom at home.

This was because the small amount of capital he had used to establish our farm was nearly exhausted. After several years of struggle against drought, disease, crop failure, packs of ravenous hyena, a pride of lion and the Land Bank, he had come to the realization that the only way to avoid getting deeper in to debt was for him to return to his old job – flying aeroplanes – leaving my mother behind to struggle on as best she could without him.

For the next seven-years my father all but disappeared out of our lives; the only communication, besides a monthly cheque, being the occasional scribbled letter from such exotic, far-off locations as the Persian Gulf, Sudan and Sierra Leone.

Although he was not present in the flesh, he was always there in spirit. The farm had been his dream and by working it, my mother and the rest of us children were, in a sense, living it for him.

By the time he finally returned home, I had already left school and gone to university. Because of this I still did not see a great deal of him although I did sometimes go and stay with him during my holidays when he was working for WENELA, based in Francistown, Botswana.

I came to love these visits especially because my father would usually arrange to take me up in the air with him. I would take an old camp chair and a Thermos of tea and sit up in the cockpit of the old DC3 or DC4 where I had an eagle’s view over the ground below.

Botswana is a country in which distances seem endless. Flying across the sparsely inhabited landscape, the plains stretch out for miles and miles and you really get to see how huge the Kalahari, Makgadikgadi Pans and Okavango Swamps are.

The droning engines. Flying over the Okavango Swamps in December 1970. Picture courtesy of Pete Stidolph.

There was something wonderful about flying in those jolting, rickety, oil-leaking old planes with their loud, droning engines. This was air travel before they took the edge and excitement out of it.

Being at the controls was so second nature to my father that he used to switch on to auto-pilot and sleep for most of the journey. Amazingly, he always knew exactly when to wake up.

Snooze time…


Not every flight went according to schedule. I remember the one time we had to change direction because a solid wall of angry, dark, rain clouds was advancing towards us at rapid speed with huge bolts of lightning slashing angrily out below them.

Storm over Botswana. Picture courtesy of Pete Stidolph.

We managed to outrun the full force of the storm, landing in Francistown just as it hit us. “I think we need a beer after that!” my father said, once we were safely inside the hangar, so we jumped in to his car and sped off to the Horseshoe Bar, just opposite the station in to which the old steam trains came puffing.

Flying in such conditions certainly provided its own unique set of challenges. On another occasion, a rhino came thundering on to the dirt airstrip, in a maelstrom of dust, just as we were about to touch down at Shakawe, at the northern tip of the Swamps, forcing my father to pull the plane’s nose back up in to the air.

It is not something I could imagine happening at, say, Heathrow or JFK Airport…

Sadly, it was only right at the end of his life that I began to spend a lot of time with my father and got to understand him better. He was retired and living with my mother on Bowmont, a small farm in the Midlands area. In the years that remained to him he was to suffer agonies from multiple myeloma (or myelomatosis), a particularly vicious strain of cancer that attacked his bones and caused them to disintegrate.

I had a job in nearby Gwelo (now Gweru) so I used to motor up most weekends to make sure they were okay. Eventually, I resigned and moved on to the farm full time.

In a strange way his illness brought us closer together.

As a child I had always been slightly in awe of my father. To me he was this outgoing, glamorous, figure who flew aeroplanes and for large tracts of time had been absent from my life, working in distant locations that I only knew as places on a map.

His life had all the ingredients an impressionable young boy could ask for – plot, action, adventure, a dashing hero. What I didn’t realise back then was that he never saw it quite like that. Nor did I fully understand the impact the war had on him.

Perhaps it was his awareness that he would not last much longer or maybe it was the fact that I was now a serving soldier myself but for the first time in his life he began to open up about his experiences as a bomber pilot during the war. He talked about what it was like flying at night in slow, heavy bombers and being picked up in the lattice of searchlights and being strafed by the German anti-aircraft guns. He told me about the fear and how he had always tried to fly higher than everybody else in the hope that it would make it more difficult for the Germans to shoot him down.

He had served in all the major theatres of the war.

Starting off as a Flight Lieutenant he was promoted to Wing Commander in August 1941, an enormous responsibility to be placed on the shoulders of a young man still in his early twenties and one which must have forced him to mature at a very rapid rate. As the officer commanding 113 Squadron he saw action in North Africa and was also stationed, for a while, on Malta. At Giarabub (Italian for Jarabub), a remote oasis in the eastern Libyan desert, he got a taste of what it was like to be on the receiving end when his squadron and ground crew were bombed by the Luftwaffe while they were living among the gullies and wadis (see pic below).

In December 1941, he led the first group of bomber planes on the long flight to Burma, arriving there just as the unstoppable Japanese army was about to begin its long sweep through Malaya, Singapore and Hong Kong; even crossing the borders of India itself.

The road to Mandalay, Burma. My father seated.

His exploits in the area did not go unnoticed. He gets a mention in the book Retreat in the East by O.D.Gallagher, who was the London Daily Express’s war correspondent in Malaya and Burma (published by George Harrop, 1942). The author flew with my father on one of his missions. He also appears, together with other members of 113 Squadron, in a 22nd February, 1942, British Paramount newsreel (“Burma Blenheim Bomber Boys Part 1”) covering the retreat.

I only recently got to see this news clip. It felt quite strange looking down the long passage of time and seeing my father as a young man, surrounded by his crew. They all looked tanned and fit in their khaki outfits and surprisingly relaxed, given the hammering the British were taking, but also a little self-conscious, pinning their smiles on for the benefit of the cameraman.

After his stint in the Far East he returned to Bomber Command and took part in some of the big raids over Europe. Among them was one which the Times of London, on November 20, 1943, described as the largest ever over Berlin: “In half an hour a great force of Lancasters dropped more than 350 4,000lb block-busters on the German capital, in addition to a great weight of incendiary bombs”. A total of 32 bombers were lost.

One of the many planes he flew was the legendary “Just Jane” which would go on to complete a total of 123 sorties. It was only one of 35 Lancasters to achieve the “Ton-Up” mile-stone during the war. It is included in the book Ton-up Lancs: A Photographic History of the 35 Lancasters That Each Completed 100 Sorties by Norman Franks (Published by Bounty Books).

He is also mentioned in Bruce Barrymore Halpenny’s Action Stations 2: Military airfields of Lincolnshire and the East Midlands while the same author devotes an entire chapter – headed A Rhodesian’s adventure over Stettin – to his exploits in To Shatter the Sky: Bomber Airfield at War (Published by Patrick Stephens Cambridge).

There is another, later, film by British Pathe (“Berlin Raids 1943”) which features an interview with my father, this one taken after he had just returned from leading a huge bombing raid on Berlin. It tells a different story to the earlier newsreel. You can see from his eyes that the strain of the war has begun to take its toll, the smiles have all gone and there is a faint tremor in his voice as he talks.

He was awarded the Distinguished Flying Cross for bringing his badly shot-up Lancaster safely back to England (see citation below*) after a bomb drop over Stettin. It warranted a story in the Rhodesia Herald back home.

Sitting listening to him talking about those times I began to get a glimpse of what it must have been like, piloting a four-engined Lancaster, taxi-ing down the runway and then lurching off into the dark, rainy night and heading out across the channel to drop thousands of tons worth of bombs on some heavily defended target. In the back of his mind there must have always been the fear he might not return or see his family again.

He was, in fact, one of the exceptionally luck ones who did survive the war – virtually every other pilot on his officers’ training course was killed in action.

By any standards he lived a full life. At the end of the war, as part of the Berlin Airlift, he started flying a plane that was already a legend and remains so today – the DC3 or Douglas Dakota. Considered a reliable old warhorse it was a plane that would play a large part in and shape his future.

After demobilisation he returned to Southern Rhodesia and become a commercial pilot working for Central African Airways flying both inside and outside the country.

In those days the flight from Salisbury to London took six-days and by the end of it a strong sense of comradeship had invariably developed between passengers and crew.

He resigned from CAA in 1956 after a dispute and joined Hunting Clan Airways, principally flying within Southern Rhodesia and further afield to Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique and South Africa. My main memory of those days is him returning home from Vilanculos in Mozambique weighed down with big demijohns of Portuguese wine, coconuts and apple boxes full of fresh crab.

With young family – from left: Paul, Peter, Patrick, Anthony.

As an airman he lived in a more swashbuckling era when commercial aviation was still in its infancy and few people thought of going by plane, the majority opting to travel by ship. Flying in and out of dusty, fly-infected airfields in those rattling, bouncy, propeller-driven crates with a minimum of on-board comforts and only limited navigation aids it was an adventure.

It was a lifestyle which certainly suited my father. A non-conformist in a uniform, who somehow managed to combine a strong sense of duty with an inate rebelliousness, he never cared much for the rigidly scheduled, heavily regulated industry flying was to become with planes cruising in the stratosphere with hundreds of passengers, air-conditioning, on-flight movies and pre-prepared meals.

He was, however, very excited by his late conversion to flying jets.

As a pilot he had gone where he wanted, he had travelled the length and breadth of the continent in the days before Rhodesia had become a pariah state, cut off from the rest of the world and when Africa was still accessible to all. Equally at home gambling in a casino on the French Riviera or marooned on some remote frontier, he liked solitude and rough living but also good company, friends, good food and drink and laughter.

You never knew who you might find breakfasting in the kitchen after a night out at the local pub. One such person was an engineer named John Louch who needed a place to stay for the night and ended up living in our Francistown house for two-years.

He was good at what he did and his colleagues always talked with reverence of Dad’s flying skills. It was easy to understand why my mother had been so attracted to him when she had first met him as a young flight officer fresh out from Rhodesia. In her memoirs, she recalls how she had lived all her life in country villages “not knowing any boys, let alone glamorous young men”.

Equally smitten with the shy but beautiful young English rose, my father went out of his way to impress, even going so far as to swoop down low over her school in his open cockpit bi-plane – a highly illegal act – while she was playing netball, causing her to fall and graze her knee. Handsome, ebullient and full of life, he was a born optimist with a natural talent for minimising life’s problems and a great faith in his own ability to get a job done.

My father (briefly sporting a moustache) and mother, Wing Commander and Mrs Stidolph.

He had charm, wit and sparkle. He could also be irritable, quick tempered, impetuous, tactless and impatient – personality traits which, I suspect, could be partly traced back to the accumalative stress of flying on so many dangerous missions during the war.

Beneath his jovial, practical, no nonsense, manner and intolerance of dull people and wishy-washy thinking, lay a vein of creativeness which found expression in his, at times, rather Heath Robinson inventions and in fixing up dilapidated old cars (he didn’t buy second hand, more like – tenth hand).

His creativity did not end there. In his early years he had dabbled in oil paintings – one of his pictures (of a demijohn of wine) hung on the wall of every house we ever lived in. It was rather good.

I didn’t realise until after he died and I got to read some of the poignant letters he had written home to my mother that he had also once harboured ambitions to be a writer. That he had a talent for it is certainly born out in a wonderfully evocative piece he wrote titled: A Trip from Muscat through Oman to Qatar in the Persian Gulf.

Despite his foray in to farming he remained first and last a pilot. From an early age he had been obsessed with the romance of flying and the sound of humming propellors – even defying his father’s orders by signing up with the RAF before the war– and it was here he really made his mark. During his career he completed 23,817 hours of flying over 42-years, including over 20,000 hours in command. He flew 48 types of aircraft for eight organisations on three continents in 44 countries. He landed in over 350 different airfield.

To the end he remained very much his own man and, despite his illness, still retained something of his old zest for life and vitality. He was larger-than-life, one of a kind, a bit of a legend.

Like his beloved Dakotas, they don’t make them like that any more…

* The award was gazetted on the 25 January 1944 (Issue 36346, pages 481 – 482) and reads:

Distinguished Flying Cross.

Wing Commander Reginald Neville Stidolph (375I3). Reserve of Air Force Officers, No. 61 Squadron.
One night in January, 1944, this officer was the pilot of an aircraft detailed to attack Stettin. Soon after bombing the target the aircraft was attacked by a fighter. The enemy aircraft was eventually driven off, however, and was seen to dive steeply smoke pouring from one of its engines. In the encounter, Wing Commander Stidolph’s aircraft sustained extensive damage, making it extremely hard to control; 1 engine was also rendered useless and had to be feathered. In spite of this Wing Commander Stidolph flew the disabled aircraft to an airfield in this country and effected a safe landing. He displayed skill, courage and resolution of a high order. This officer has completed very many attacks against targets such as Berlin, Hamburg and Dusseldorf.

The above are three of the squadrons my father served in and whose badges hang on my wall. There were others…

GALLERY:

(1) My father joined the RAF, before the war, in November 1935 and served right through to its end in 1945. Here are more some photographs from that period.

(2) From March, 1960, to about February, 1966 my father worked outside the country, based, in turn, at Bahrein in the Persian Gulf, Sierra Leone and in Khartoum where he was employed by Sudan Airways.The following photos come from this period of his life:





ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: A special thanks to my brother, Patrick, whose extensive research in to my father’s flying career I have been able to draw on here. Pat’s research now forms part of the No50 and No61 Squadron Association official record.It was Patrick who also drew my attention to an article written by Ross Dix-Peek about my father’s war-time career.

Something Rotten in Msunduzi: Cartoons For July and August, 2019:

SUMMARY: Pietermaritzburg’s woes continued with the municipality calling for urgent action to be taken to deal with the City’s runaway debtor’s book, which has run to more than R3,5 billion.

Former president, Jacob Zuma, made his underwhelming appearance before the Zondo Commission of Inquiry in to state capture, largely repeating what he has been saying for years – it is all a plot, there are spies afoot, there is no such thing as state capture.

Across the sea, Boris Johnson, the Brexiteer who has promised to lead Britain out of the European Union with or without a deal by the end of October, was elected to replace Theresa May as prime minister after winning the leadership of the Conservative Party.

The eThekwini Municipality finally owned up to the fact that Durban’s R170 million infrastructure projects have been wrecked by so-called “business forums” who have been extorting businesses for years. The MEC for Economic Development, Tourism and Environment Affairs, Nomusa Dube-Ncube told the legislature that the government will “deal” with these business forums – many of whom were allies of the state capture faction of the ANC.

Even closer to home, a task team set up by the ANC to investigate the ongoing shenanigans in the Msunduzi Municipality, recommended the entire municipal top brass be axed including Mayor Themba Njilo. As if to emphasise the extent of the rot, the very next day it was revealed that the KZN Hawks were investigating a case of fraud against City officials over a R45 million swimming pool tender.

The following week the Msunduzi Municipality found itself without political leadership as the ANC Provincial Executive Committee (PEC), acting on its task team’s recommendation, duly removed the mayor and the entire executive committee (Exco).

The gap was later filled when the ANC KwaZulu-Natal leadership announced former Msunduzi councillor Mzimkulu Thebola as the new mayor of the municipality. The appointment of the relatively unknown Thebola was made on the back of speculation that the problems with the region and Msunduzi ANC caucus had resulted in high profile candidates declining to take the Msunduzi mayoral position.

I decided to end the month by tackling a subject very close to my heart – the environment. In this respect, it was a bad week for Pietermaritzburg with toxic effluent being spilled in to the Duzi river, toxic fumes being discharged in to the air from the burning municipal landfill site and uncollected rubbish left lying on the streets.

For the purposes of my cartoon, however, I chose to have a go at the denialist-in-chief, US President Donald Trump…