Going with the Flow: Olifants

August 5, 2023August 7, 2023 / stidyatkusane / 16 Comments

I stood on the deck of the lodge watching the broken white water as it fought and funnelled its way through a series of rapids and cataracts that had been cut into the cracked and fissured seams of rock below. At a point, to my left, its numerous strands converged into a single gushing torrent before plunging over a small waterfall into a narrow ravine and then meandering off towards the distant red cliffs.

The trellised patchwork of islands, sandbanks, spits, reed beds and rocky promontories immediately above it was alert with life. On one of the larger islands, a bloat of hippos lay stretched out, comatose, in the sand, lapping up the last warming rays of the sun. Just across the way, another, smaller group had marked out their separate slice of prime riverside real estate. Stately water buck, with their white rump and course grey hair, stood in small groups by the water’s edge scanning the bush for any hidden dangers before stepping gingerly down to drink. They had good reason to be cautious. Not far from where the one lot was, several huge basking crocodiles lay supine on the bank. In a nearby pool, I could just make out the long snout and dinosaur eyes of another as it floated, log-like, just below the surface.

As the sun sank lower, the hippo began to lift their dusty bulks and move, either to where there was grass to eat or by simply lumbering into the fast-flowing river beside them, snorting up clouds of bubbles as they did. Directly beneath me, several large elephants, their calves in tow, ploughed their way through the reed beds, leaving behind a ruined bog of mud and crushed vegetation. A pair of quarrelsome Egyptian Geese shouted rancorously about who knows what before flying off down the river to their nightly roosting spot.

On the far side of the river, the trees stretched away, seemingly forever, under an arch of empty blue sky. There were no buildings, no people, nothing to suggest that this landscape had ever been inhabited by anything but animals. There are tourists in the park, of course, plenty of them. Driving around under the supervision of the tour operators in especially converted game-viewing vehicles and decked out in their idea of appropriate bush wear, many of them look strangely ill at ease and out of place in this primordial landscape. Watching some of them earlier, as they gathered for an afternoon drive, I could not help but think of Joseph Conrad’s baffled ‘pilgrims’ in his dark tale about a boat trip up another mighty African river (the Congo) – Heart Darkness.

Raising my binoculars, I scanned upstream. In the far distance a herd of elephants, their thirst slaked, trekked in single file across the sand towards the surrounding woodlands. Led by the senior matriarch, they flowed along in a steady swaying motion, their large, sensitive, ears flapping gently, their trunks hanging slackly down. Despite their immense size, elephants can move surprisingly quietly, sometimes only the low rumble of their stomachs giving their presence away.

They moved with all the solemn dignity of a line of monks heading to evening vespers. I found it all deeply moving.

Indeed, if I didn’t know better, I would have sworn the whole scene had been deliberately conjured up by the park authorities just to show me why the river had been so named.

A major tributary of the Limpopo, the Olifants is one of the iconic Kruger rivers. Its camp, built on the steep shoulder of a hill just where the river abruptly bends, has, to my mind, the most breathtaking view in the entire park. I don’t normally get to stay in it because it doesn’t have a campsite where I can pitch my tent – which is as far as my limited travel budget normally allows – but this time I was doing it some style thanks to the kindness of other family members. I was enjoying the upgrade, to say nothing of the view.

I have always felt a strong affinity for rivers, especially African ones. In Conrad’s famous novella, the Congo River comes to symbolise the more evil aspects of man, as well the moral confusion its narrator, Marlow, experiences as he steams up it in search of the elusive Mr Kurz. For me, though, the river in front of me had far less sinister associations. As it twisted and turned and hammered its way through the hard, layered, rock of the Lebombo mountain range, it got me thinking about the passing of time.

The Olifants begins its journey somewhere up on the high plateau of Mpumalanga, drops down through the craggy peaks of northern Drakensberg and then snakes its way, serpent-like, across the great plain below. Along the way it faces challenges, difficulties and threats as it is forced to assess and choose options best suited to making progress. These periods of turbulence are followed by passages of calm and smooth going where it is able, quite literally, to go with the flow. Towards the end, it slows down to a point of torpor before dissipating into the Limpopo and then, finally, the sea. Having had to navigate some perilous waters of my own, I was only too aware of what point of that journey my life had reached. It made me a little uneasy – and all the more determined to make the most of this trip.

On another level, the Olifants River encapsulated everything I love about the Bushveld and this magnificent last refuge of large animals. Staring out over its shimmering pools, piles of driftwood and darkening shadows I, once again, found my imagination fired by its vast mysteries and remote beauties.

*We were lucky enough to have a pride of lions come down to drink from the Olifants, directly opposite our lodge*…

By now the sun had sunk beneath the horizon. With its departure, scores of bats came hurtling out from their roosts and headed out over the water, their bodies silhouetted black against the orange-red sky. On cue, the dark, falcon-like, form of a Bat Hawk came slashing through the sky in hot pursuit. A rare resident, whose distribution in South Africa is confined mostly to Kruger and northern Kwa-Zulu Natal this secretive bird, which roosts by day, is not often seen.

It was obviously not the only creature out on the hunt that night. As I took another sip of beer, I heard a scuffling sound from an area of dry grass just outside the electrified fence. Leaning over the guard rail, I caught a glimpse of a black-backed, short-legged, busy-looking, animal scuttling quickly on the ground. It was a Honey Badger, notorious for its ferocity if cornered, whose coarse hair and thick skin helps protect it from bee stings.

Sitting in the dark blue light, with Venus glittering brightly just above the horizon, I could imagine the countryside below us alive with similar hungry eyes – lion, leopard, hyena, wild dog, jackal – while shadowy herds, sensing their not-so-friendly intentions, stood in the darkness, frozen with fear.

After dinner. which we ate outside under the stars, I lay in bed listening to the comforting sound of the river below. It felt wonderful to be enveloped once more in these familiar surroundings. I looked forward to the next days’ explorations, wondering what they would bring?

Olifants lies within a transition zone between three ecosystems. It is here that the open savannah country, typical of the Satara area, gives way to Mopani, by far the most dominant tree of the northern section of the park. It also marks the beginning of baobab country. To the east stretches the Lebombo mountain chain– which starts in KZN and runs through the entire length of Swaziland before entering the park. Studded with rocks, thorns, bushwillows and candelabra-like euphorbia its forms the spine of the park.

The next day, we got up before the sun and headed along the road that leads past VonWeilligh’s Baobab stopping off at the viewpoint along the way. We arrived just in time to see the sun rise over the same impressive cliffs that I had admired through my binoculars the evening before.

I usually travel to Kruger at the height of summer – to catch the returning migrants – when the temperatures regularly rise into the forties, so the chill came as a surprise. Pale gold in the early morning light, we could sense the countryside around us coming to life. As the sky lightened in the east, a whole chorus of birds began twittering in the trees, as if paying homage to the dawn of a new day. Doves pumped their throats in vigorous coooi-ing (“How’s father, how’s father?!”). Fork-tailed Drongoes performed acrobatics in the cold air. Spurfowl scolded. Waggle-tailed impala scampered about, no doubt relieved to have survived another night. Giraffes arched their necks to nibble on tree tops. In the grass beside the road, I saw a Red-crested Korhaan still bunched up in a round, feathery ball because of the cold.

A lone Spotted Hyena came loping up the road. It stopped for a few moments directly in front of the car and fixed its cadaverous eyes on us like it was some escapee from the underworld with an unusual tale to tell. Then it made a small diversion, trotted around the side of the vehicle, gave one last look back and disappeared back into the shadowy world it had emerged from.

We moved on, searching with hopeful eyes for more exciting sightings. The highlight of our drive up from Malelane had been spotting a leopard (actually, someone else had spotted it, we had just joined the general vehicular mayhem and excitement created by the sighting). On the move, a leopard can radiate menace and deadly intention but sprawled out, fast asleep in the fork of a gnarled old tree, this one looked as harmless as any domestic tabby cat. I could almost imagine it purring with contentment if I had climbed up the tree and stroked it.

Now it was our turn for lions. This time we had them all to ourselves, without all the jostling-for-position vehicles blocking our view. There are few more sights in nature more awe-inspiring than a pride of lions returning from a night hunt and this lot really was impressive. The large, shaggy-maned, male crossed the road ahead of us, its walk low-slung and easy. It appeared completely indifferent to our presence, not even casting a side-long glance in our direction as it disappeared into the trees on the other side. A young lioness was more curious, coming right up to the edge of the car, the gold cat’s sun-flecked eyes shimmering with hidden lights as she stared up at me. Sitting next to my open window, worrying about the possibility she saw me as a potential meal, I suddenly became aware of just how close she was.

We drove on. Two round-haunched zebra stood rock-still on the crest of the road before us, considering their options before moving on towards the distant horizon. I wondered if the bush telegraph had told them about the lion…

Later, we came across a family of hyenas who had taken up residence in a network of old burrows by the side of the road. Accustomed to cameras and faces in cars, they were not the slightest put out by our proximity to their lair. In the background, lay the mother, fast asleep in the shade of a mopani tree. As we pulled to a stop, one of her cubs stuck its head out of its hole, eyed us quizzically and, obviously decided to extend us some hospitality, for it came frolicking towards us. The curious youngster gave our car a quick, 360degree inspection, sniffing here and there – my brother-in-law had a few anxious moments because he thought it was about to bite a chunk out of the back tyre of his brand new car – and then went back to its hole, plonking itself alongside the entrance and going to sleep too, its social obligations for the day completed.

I felt well pleased. It is always an event to see two of the Big Cats in so many days and has a bunch of hyenas thrown in as a bonus, a small triumph scored. Now, I just needed Wild Dog but – alas – on that score, I would once again be disappointed…

Over the next few days, though, we continued to traverse this landscape with the same sense of wonder, immersing ourselves in the daily rhythms of the animals.

We travelled south towards Satara, via Balule and the Nwanetsi river route, where the country opens up into grassland populated by companies of zebra and wildebeest. There were more elephants, trundling along in the yellow light of dawn. As always, the matriarch led the way knowing, from years of experience, where the best grazing lay. At a small drift, we came upon a quaint Little and Large scene – an elephant siphoning up voluminous amounts of liquid from the same spot a mother spurfowl and her chicks were sipping much more delicately. The small birds seemed completely unfazed by the size and proximity of their drinking companion.

Besides the big rivers – Crocodile, Shingwedzi, Olifants, Letaba, Luvuvhu, the Limpopo – many smaller rivulets run through Kruger although most remain dry outside the rainy season. It is always worth stopping at these quieter, more secluded, roadside pools as you never know what you might find skulking around the margins. Often they provide a home for herons, egrets, storks and stilts, waders, Three-banded Plovers, as well as the shy Black Crake with its bright red beak and legs. Amongst the reeds and greenery, you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the brilliant orange and sapphire plumage of the Malachite Kingfisher just before it plunges into the water. Brighter than any illustration could be, this beautiful little bird is but one of the many species of kingfisher that occur in the park.

Changing direction, the next day, we travelled north along the Letaba River to the camp bearing that name. Up until that point we had hardly seen another soul but that all changed when we got there and ran slap-bang into the very thing I had been seeking to avoid because it rather undercuts the whole wilderness experience – a seething mass of humanity. Most of them were either on their cellphones, guzzling cool drinks with exuberant lust or wolfing down junk food. Even Kruger, it seems, is not safe from the consumer society and with the ever-increasing volumes of tourist traffic overcrowding could become a problem.

But we had better things to occupy our minds with. The next day we cut westwards following the meandering path of the Timbabvati River, not too far from the area famed for its white lions. We didn’t see them but we did see two standard-model female lions lying in the shade by the river. They too ignored us, just another carload of gaping sight-seers. Several kilometres on we also came across a handsome old boy lying prostrate in the golden grass. He blended in so well, you could barely make him out.

Impalas are plentiful in this part of the park, so the lion’s presence hardly came as a surprise. More easily overlooked and solitary in habits were the steenbok. Graceful, soft-furred little creatures, their diminutive size makes them look especially vulnerable but they somehow survive in this harsh environment. Like other buck, they live a life of constant chase and evasion.

Then there were the birds. With over 500 species recorded, Kruger is a birder heaven. It is also a great place for raptors. I dutifully ticked off Martial Eagle, African Hawk Eagle, Fish Eagle, Tawny Eagle, and Brown Snake Eagle. The open grasslands in the central regions of the park are also good places to see Secretary Birds (actually an eagle with very long legs), Kori Bustard (the heaviest flying bird in the world), and the lugubrious Southern Ground Hornbill (we were lucky enough to have three separate sightings. They are now listed as Threatened in many parts of their range).

Heading homeward at the end of our trip, we came across another solitary leopard striding purposefully through the grass by the side of the road. Unlike the one we had seen coming in, it looked neither relaxed nor friendly. Openly disdainful of our presence, it didn’t bother to look back as I clicked away on my camera.

A bit further on, we chanced upon a wake of vultures sitting hunched up on the canopies of the surrounding trees, still digesting the carrion from a nearby lion kill. Because of their rather unsavoury habit of sticking their long, naked necks deep into the putrescence, vultures don’t enjoy the most favourable of reputations. I must confess, however, to having a peculiar fondness for these greedy, squabbling, big-beaked, gimpy-eyed, angry-looking, scavenger birds. As a cartoonist, I find them wonderful to draw. Amongst this group – made up mostly of the White-backed – I was pleased to see a White-headed Vulture, now very rare outside the major game reserves.

Our encounter with vultures did not end there. My brother-in-law had told me of a place, further south, where flocks of vultures like to regularly gather on the banks of a river for a daily dust bath. Sure enough, when we drew up on the bridge, there they all were, just downstream, dancing around one another in cantering hops, their enormous wings outstretched, their white back marking clearly displayed. They looked like priesthood initiates participating in some archaic, secretive, sacrificial ritual.

Why they chose this particular spot to perform their ceremonial ablutions is unclear. I was still pondering the mystery of this when we crossed over the Crocodile River (also aptly named) and exited the park. Suddenly, we were no longer in the heart of the wilderness but buzzing along a two-lane highway crammed solid with huge trucks, speeding cars and maniacal drivers.

Caught up in the juggernaut, reality began to seep back in. My escape from civilisation was over. Now, I was headed back to a world of responsibilities and commitments; to say nothing of difficult people, dysfunctional municipalities, corrupt and inept politicians, crumbling infrastructure and load shedding, all of which it is my job, as a cartoonist, to dutifully portray and comment on. I had to fight my every instinct which was to turn around and flee back to the far more agreeable company of the vultures…

GALLERY

Birds:

Other scenes:

Into The Furnace: Adventures In Kruger

December 12, 2020 / stidyatkusane / 8 Comments

I am, by nature, a bit of a wanderer. Even though I live in one of the most beautiful parts of the country and am mostly satisfied with my lot every now and again my questing instinct begins to reassert itself and I feel obliged to follow where it leads me.

There are good reasons for this. By evolution we are hunters and gatherers. It is an underlying drive. It is part of that sense of excitement and privilege which comes from finding something special – be it a landscape, animal or bird.

Thus, when my sister asked me if I would like to join her on a trip through Mpumalanga and Limpopo Provinces there was no way I could say no…

With the Mapungubwe leg of our expedition behind us, we have now just passed through the Pafuri Gate and driven in to Kruger National Park. It is still dry season and what little grass there is has been grazed to the ground. Although we don’t see them, there are signs of elephant everywhere. Their droppings litter the road. Hundreds of tiny dung beetles are busy mining the excreta, turning it in to compact balls, often a lot bigger than themselves, and then rolling them away. Elsewhere, broken trees and branches lie strewn across the landscape. The closer we get to Pafuri and the Limpopo and Luvuvhu river, the worse the carnage gets.

Just over the Luvuvhu Bridge we turn left down the road that leads to Crook’s Corner where the borders of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique meet. In the cool of the morning this route, with its lush riverine forest, is one of South Africa’s prime birding drives but because of the intense heat there is not much activity now.

We stop for lunch at the picnic area on the banks of the Luvuvhu. Sitting in the cooling shade of the massive, spreading, Nyala and Jackal-berry trees my thoughts drift back to the Battle of the Somme-like scenes I have just witnessed.

*Pafuri picnic site, Luvuvhu River*. My niece, Kelly.

Elephants have, of course, been destroying woodlands for thousands of years. In the process, they consume vast amounts of pods which they then deposit elsewhere so, in that sense, this is all part of a natural process of regeneration. The problem now, of course, is that the elephants movements have been restricted to certain protected areas and park which puts added pressure on the environment.

Kruger is probably big enough to absorb the damage but you do feel a solution needs to be found in some of the more worse hit areas. It is a controversial subject, of course, although there is one thing I am certain of. It is no good saying we mustn’t interfere with nature. We already have.

At Pafuri there is another factor which has led to the destruction of the riverine forest. If extreme weather still counts as natural, than the severe floods that have hit the area in recent years, uprooting or flattening hundreds of trees, overnight, changed much of the landscape. Again, it could be argued that this nature’s way of replenishing the precious top soil and allowing new plants to emerge, although such thoughts also, invariably, lead to the question of climate change.

What effect is it having? Will it have a significant impact on bird-life and mammals? Will they be able to adapt? These are questions which go around and around in my brain and end up nowhere, so I go back to munching my sandwich.

The subject of climate change still weighs heavily on my mind, later that day, as we sit on the verandah of our chalet at Mopani Camp, overlooking a dam studded with dead tree trunks. The temperatures are in the low-forties. I feel like I am drowning in the heat. Everywhere animals and birds lie spread-eagled in the shade. Even the usually noisy, hyper-active, Greater-eared Starlings sit panting in the shrubbery.

In this breathless air, the normal sounds of the bush have become eerily muted. The birds have stopped singing, the butterflies have grown lethargic and abandoned their search for nectar, the lizards cease scurrying, the hippos sink deeper in to their watery homes.

Even the coming of night fails to sooth it. As the sun sinks, the water of the dam turns the colour of cauldron flames. Along it edges, duck, geese, heron, egrets, cormorants, darter, stints and little waders stand motionless, frozen in the moment like figures in a painting. Suddenly a family of White-faced Fulvous Whistling Duck rise, in spumes of spray, and head off across the dam. Their rallying whistle is a sound like no other. Hearing it, the years flash back, through my childhood, to the days when I used to go out exploring with my brother, Pete, or went fishing with my Dad for bream in the farm dams.

On the edge of darkness, flocks of Red-billed Quelea come swirling through the evening sky in massive, rolling, waves, to their roosting spots in the trees along the water’s edge. Suddenly a much larger, darker form swoops out of nowhere at breath-taking speed and veers down towards them. Then – another. And another! Three Bat Hawk, each one the essence of distilled cunning, are out hunting. The Quelea immediately become vigilant and shoot up in another massive wave of movement. One bird is not so lucky. Having seized the tiny bird in it talons, the Bat Hawk wheels off victoriously. Still flying in synchronised formation, the rest of the Quelea continue with their evasive action before returning to their roosting spots, to live to fly another day.

There has been no let up in the temperature the next day. In fact, it has got worse.

Exhausted by the heat my sister elects to remain at home but the rest of us head off in the Isuzu bakkie along the Tshongololo Loop. We stop at the ford below the Pioneer dam. Scampering alongside it are a pair of Black Crake. They are normally the shyest of birds but these ones have grown so accustomed to the steady flow of traffic across the bridge that they barely give us a sideways glance.

In the shallows on the other side of the bridge there are some Spoonbill and a Great White Heron. A lone Yellow-billed Stork stands with his wings outstretched, gazing intently into the water. Like the Narcissus of legend, it seems to have fallen in love with its own reflection although I am not sure why because they are curious-looking birds. Or maybe it is just hoping to spear some fish…

A family of Cattle Egret stand amongst the rocks on the banks of the river. There are yawning hippo in the pool. Crocodile too.

Leaving the river behind us we find ourselves rapidly encircled by a sea of low Mopani scrub, just come out in leaf. Sitting in the front seat, I feel like I am on the bridge of a battleship pounding through waves of green. Suddenly, above this leafy expanse, I see a tall, dead branch protruding like a submarine’s periscope. On it sits a raptor. It takes a while for the different components of my brain to start working in unison before I finally figure out what it is – an Osprey. I go through various stages of disbelief. Really?! What is it doing out here in the boondocks? It is totally out of its normal habitat. Then I remember the Pioneer Dam is not all that far away. I take a photo of the bird even though it is just a speck in my viewfinder.

There are lots of Brown-hooded Kingfishers in the woodland. This kingfisher, like the Wooded, Striped and Pygmy Kingfishers, is an oddity of evolution in that it doesn’t actually fish or hang out near water but prefers to hunt for insects deeper inland.

Further on, we come to a rock kopje. Growing amongst its elephant hide-coloured boulders is a massive baobab, in which a colony of Red-billed Sparrow Weaver’s nest. The birds are agitated. We soon discover why. A rufous-form, Tawny Eagle sits on one of the branches, a study in regal elegance. I decide the whole scene will make a good painting so take another photograph. The eagle flies off and lands on top of a nearby dead tree.

*Baobab. A Tawny Eagle can just be seen on high branch to the left*.

We plough on through miles and miles of similar looking country before returning home later that day.

Eating breakfast on the verandah, the next morning, we are visited by two of the larger reptiles who seem to have made their homes amongst the tumble of rocks in front of our chalet – a Plated Lizard and a Water Monitor (or Leguuan) Then some butterflies flutter by. Among them, I recognise the Citrus Swallowtail, African Monarch, Blue Pansy. My brother-in-law says there don’t seem to be as many birds scrounging around the chalet as there was the last time he visited. He wonders if this is because lockdown had deprived them of their most reliable food source – the stuff discarded by humans – forcing them to move away?

*Citrus Swallowtail alighting on blue Plumbago.*..

After breakfast, we decide to brave the heat once more and head off along the Tropic of Capricorn loop road that takes you through yet more of the flat, savannah plains that stretch out as far as the eye can see, in every direction, As we drive through this familiar landscape, I feel that old sense of connection I always get when I am in Kruger. It is like I have become part of something much larger than myself but which somehow includes me. It is an almost spiritual – some might say, religious – connection with the bush.

On the road directly in front of us a large shadow silently steals so I direct my gaze upwards through the windscreen of the car. With its stubby tail and striking colours there is no mistaking a Bataleur. Later we will see one squatting on the ground. Parks, like this one, have become one of the last bastions for this majestic eagle.

A bit farther on we come to a place where a recent thunderstorm storm has flooded part of the plain, leaving an extended puddle of water in which are several small waders – White-fronted Plover, Kittlitz’s Plover, Marsh Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff. We drive on. Just around the corner, in the same open expanse of ground, I discover a flock of birds I had failed to find in Mapungubwe – the Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark (formerly Finchlark). Although there are plenty of trees they could fly to, they have chosen to seek refuge from the sun by huddling up in the shadow cast by a few stones. Just beyond them I spot one of my favourite songsters – the Rufous-naped Lark. A Black-chested Snake Eagle wings overhead.

The temperature rises by a degree, then another. It is nudging towards forty-five. As it does so everything begins to slacken: the restless searching for food, the browsing, the fluttering about. Buffalo, Wildebeest, Tsessebe, Kudu, Impala, Waterbuck lie idle in the torpid heat. Birds seek shelter in trees and under bushes, their beaks agape desperately tying to keep cool.

A car has drawn up on the side of the road up in front of us. We stop to see what its occupants are looking at. A shape suddenly comes in to view high up in a tree. There is a leopard drowsing in a fork between several branches, its tail twitching as if trying to fan itself.

We move on, leaving it in peace. Despite the heat, there is still game in plenty even if most of it is resting. As we drive, I search with hopeful eyes for lion or – even better – Wild Dog but other than the solitary leopard there doesn’t seem to be a predator for miles around. Nor do I see any vultures circling high in the sky, indicating a possible kill. (a good friend of mine, the bird artist Penny Meakin, will pass through this part of the world a few weeks later and have much better luck – she will see seven lion, several leopard, a pack of Wild Dog, a cheetah, plus a host of vultures squabbling over the carcase of a recently killed buffalo).

Undeterred, I keep scanning the sides of the road, picking up several birds as I do so – African Pipit, Wattled Starling, Double-banded Sandgrouse, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Red-headed Finch, Red-breasted Swallow, Kori Bustard, Jacobin Cuckoo and, most special of all, a family of Ground Hornbill who regard us quizzically through long eye-lashes before ambling off.

Running roughly parallel to the distant Lebombo mountains is a long, thin, shallow depression where grass, reeds and rushes grow in course clumps, almost like moorland. Later in the season I can imagine it will be completely flooded bringing in scores of waterfowl but at the moment there are only a few pools of water. It looks like ideal lion – or even cheetah – country to me but still no luck.

By an old concrete reservoir, a herd of elephant queue patiently, waiting to take their turn to drink. There is no other animal in the wild that elicits quite the same emotions in me as an elephant. I love them but I fear them too. They are huge but delicate, powerful but surprisingly gentle. They can shatter the sky with their angry trumpeting and yet are also able to move through the bush as silently as ghosts…

Elephants travel in matriarchal groups, ordinarily the leader is the oldest cow. There are several new calves with this group. Yet again, I am struck by the strong sense of family the herd exhibits. You can feel the kinship, loyalty and respect for the matriarch. I wish human society was as well-ordered and peaceful. If elephants bear ill-will towards us it is hardly surprising for we have harried, tormented and hunted them for so long that the memories of man-inflicted terror must be ingrained deep inside their cavernous skulls.

A little further down the long vlei, the road abruptly veers right, heading up to the Shibavantsengele lookout point in the Lebombo range. We decide to go there. Stepping out the car is like stepping in to a furnace but the view makes it worthwhile. The Lebombo – which begin in Zululand and then stretch up through Swaziland to provide Kruger with its spine – are not particularly high at this point, but are still high enough to make you appreciate the enormity of the land, stretching away in to the blue distance and simmering in the thickening heat haze. There is a magic to this place. A spirit seems to haunt the air, ancient and impassive.

That evening, as I help myself to another generous glass of my brother-in-law’s very expensive single-malt whisky, I am aware of a changing of the guard. One set of living animals is going off to slumber, while another comes to life.

The surface of the dam turns a fiery gold again. The Quelea are returning to their roosts but although I search the skies with my binoculars I see no sign of the Bat Hawk. Maybe they have decided to do what Bat Hawks are supposed to do and gone off looking for bats (my brother-in-laws bat detector has picked up hundreds of their calls).

‘The next day we set off home, unaware that Kruger is saving up its best for last. As we are driving, my eagle-eyed sister spots a pair of ears protruding just above some low-lying scrub. For a while the ears remain where they are, then a magnificent female leopard slowly rises to her feet, stretches and ambles across the road directly in front of us. For a few minutes she stands in the middle of it, coolly observing us. Then, with a dismissive whisk of the tail, she strolls on.