A Rite of Passage: Reflections and Perceptions

Fifty-odd years on, the Rhodesia Bush War has become a mere footnote in history. Outside of a few grizzled old veterans, whose numbers continue to dwindle each year, it is no longer a subject on which most people bother to dwell. For a substantial part of my early adulthood, however, it cast a deep shadow over my life. It still, periodically, comes back to haunt me.

As fate would have it, I got called up to do my National Service on the 3rd of January 1973, barely a month after the opening shots of the war (in its new phase) were fired. For every able-bodied white boy in Rhodesia over the age of 18 years going to Llewellyn Barracks, just outside Bulawayo, for basic training, was considered an important rite of passage, part of the painful process of growing up and developing discipline, a test by fire, an initiation into adulthood. You went in there a boy and – so the reasoning went – came out a man.

It was a piece of mythologising I never completely bought into.

On one level, I suppose I was lucky in that my schooling had partly prepared me for the rigours and discipline of military life. In a sense, its conventions were all familiar to me.

At the tender age of seven, I had been despatched by train to boarding school on the other side of the country, first at Rhodes Estate Preparatory School (REPS) in the Matopos Hills, and then, later, to Plumtree and Umtali Boys High School, three institutions of learning modelled, to varying degree, on the UK public school system and reproducing many of the features of its English prototype – an emphasis on sporting prowess (especially cricket and rugby), healthy outdoor activities, house masters, prefects and fags and a curriculum which affirmed the values and virtues of European culture.

Having spent eleven years of life at boarding school I had some inkling of what awaited me in the army but that knowledge did not bring me any comfort. Contrary to popular belief my school days were not the happiest of my life and I had been mightily relieved to finally escape the narrow confines of hostel life. Having tasted a measure of freedom at university I now had no desire to return to the bottom of the pecking order or become part of a culture in which once again I would find myself in a subordinate position, unable to answer back and where I could expect to be shouted at and belittled.

The day before I was due to enlist I shaved off my moustache and sideburns, which I had cultivated at university as a declaration of independence, and went to my local barber for the obligatory short, back and sides, army-style haircut. As I stood staring into the mirror, afterwards I realised it was not just my hair that had got flushed down the plughole – with it had gone my freedom. I was about to become official government property with an army number that would, henceforth, always appear before my rank (rifleman) and name. These I would be required to yell out, in a thunderous voice, on parade (my “thunderous” voice failed to impress).

And so, feeling once again like a new boy on his first day at school – anxious, apprehensive and slightly queasy (but doing my best not to show it) – I stood on the platform of Salisbury station waiting for the night train (the same train that used to take me to boarding school) that would deliver me to my fate. As I sat staring out the window as we clattered off into the surrounding gloom, I had a frightened sense of being in the wrong place and that this was not supposed to be happening to me. At some point on our journey down the tracks, I fell asleep, lulled by the methodical, rocking motion of the train. I awoke around 5 o’clock the next morning just as the train pulled into Heany Junction, a nondescript railway siding stuck in the middle of the veldt, just north of Bulawayo. Here, a convoy of Bedford RL trucks stood lined up on the side of the road. There were cries, lurchings and trampings in the corridor as all the young conscripts came stumbling out of their compartments.

Before we properly knew what had hit us, we were standing on a dark platform, clutching our suitcases. At the same time, the regular sergeants who had been sent to greet us, disdainfully barked out a string of orders: As I stood there with all the others, clutching my suitcase, I realised that my life as I knew it was about to change and not in a way I wanted.

The drive from the siding to Llewellyn Barracks did little to dispel the feeling of emptiness of this place, nor my growing sense of apprehension. Everywhere around us, dry, dusty thornveld rolled out across the sun-baked plain.

Our barracks were not exactly five-star accommodation. Originally built to serve as a World War 2 air training base, they had been converted to their present use with the establishment of 2 Rhodesia Regiment. Climbing off the truck I stood for a moment, trying to get a feel for the place. Metal is not the medium of passion and the ugly array of prefabricated corrugated iron buildings that greeted us did little to revive my rapidly flagging spirits. The place was as Spartan as I had expected and grim beyond belief.

Standing before my allocated bed, I realised I was going to need a strategy to survive and decided the best way was to try and blend unobtrusively into the background.

For the next two-and-a-half months I would make it my business to try to keep out of the way as much as I possibly could but despite my best intentions, I somehow always managed to end up being noticed (maybe it was the blond hair), especially on the parade ground where my inability to keep in step (a lifelong problem for me, in more ways than one)) proved a distinct handicap. Nor did it help that I have always been deplorably untidy. Try as I might I could never get my boots and buckles shiny enough, my beret was always at the wrong angle and, most damning of all, I could never get the correct spacing between the layers of my puttees.

Indeed, any hopes I might have entertained of being cut out for the military life were quickly dispelled by the Company Sergeant-Major who informed me, in front of the whole barrack room that I was the most unsoldier-like soldier he had ever had the displeasure to encounter in all his years in the army. That was fine by me. I had no designs on turning myself into a goose-stepping automaton. If he had meant it as a criticism, I took it as a compliment.

It was this disinclination to give every part of myself to the cause that, in a sense, disqualified me from ever becoming a good soldier, for in the army you were expected to think and act as one. To this end, I soon realised, that the basic point of training is to strip you down and then build you in its mould, to get you to a point where you trust those around you with your life. In such an environment there is no place for difference or diversity.

All this I understood. My problem was that I had already spent more than five years out of school, during which I had worked and also been to university. There, I was encouraged to think for myself and began to question some of my most basic assumptions about the society in which I had grown up. In short, I had got used to being treated like an adult.

Some people actually love military life because of the sense of order and structure it brings to their lives. They like the feeling of brotherhood, of being part of a large family. For them there is something galvanising about the lifestyle, it gives them a sense of identity and purpose and makes them feel alive.

I was not one of those. The endless drills, inspections, being forced to do everything at the double, the menial tasks, the constant ridicule, bawling outs and being punished for the most modest of dress imperfections, the expectation of blind obedience, all combined to wear me out.

Short of going AWOL and spending the rest of my life in exile there was not much I could do about it. I had not reached a position where I was prepared to risk alienating family and friends by taking such drastic action. And so I just gritted my teeth and settled in for the long haul.

After our basic training was completed, our company was despatched first to the Kariba Dam area and then, later, to the sharp end in the North-East section of the country.

Although I was only too aware that there could well be someone out there carrying a bullet with my name on it, I felt happier in the bush. As someone who had grown up on a farm, I found it far more my natural medium than the parade square. I still wasn’t sure I was ready for combat but at least the discipline wasn’t as strict and the distinction between officer and men began to gradually erode. Not that our conditions were cause for much cheer. Sapped by the physical demands of life on patrol, we were hot, cold, filthy, hungry, thirsty and very weary for large chunks of the time. Trapped in this semi-animal existence, my world shrank. Mostly, I was stuck with just the six men in my “stick”. I would depend on them if I found myself coming under unfriendly fire. Facing an invisible enemy most of the time, it was inevitable that our lives would become deeply intertwined and that a strong bond developed between us.

My year’s national service finally came to an end but my life as a reluctant conscript did not. At the beginning of hostilities, the politicians were serenely confident we could easily defeat the enemy. I was not so sure. As the conflict dragged on and the nationwide security situation continued to deteriorate, it seemed increasingly unlikely that there would be a good end. The unpalatable reality was that our battlefield successes were not winning us the war

And so, for the next seven years, I was obliged to put my future on hold, as I found myself subject to an increasing number of call-ups.. Like many others, I came to view these as an unwelcome but necessary duty. A grind. We did not get much recognition. As an ordinary territorial foot soldier, our lives lacked the exotic flourishes that characterised the more glamorous regular units like the Selous Scouts (with their shaggy beards and matted hair), the secretive SAS and the Rhodesia Light Infantry (RLI).

A letter (dated 3rd March 1979), I wrote to my sister in South Africa, just before the elections that ushered in the short-lived Zimbabwe-Rhodesia government captured my mood at the time:

“I just hope it [the six-week call-up II was on] is worth it and that something concrete comes out of the election although I am sceptical. Unless there is a massive change of heart on the part of Britain, the US and the OAU I can see no withdrawal of sanctions, no end of the war and no recognition…the only difference will be that we will no longer have an exclusively white government.”

My fears proved correct.

Running out of options and boxed into a corner, the once obdurate Rhodesian Prime Minister, Ian Smith, was eventually forced to the negotiation table. The subsequent peace agreement led to an election which – despite a lot of wishful thinking on the part of many whites – resulted in Robert Mugabe’s ZANU-PF inevitable victory. Tired, unsettled and emotionally exhausted, I handed in my weapon at the Drill Hall and walked out of its gates for the last time – a free man. I won’t pretend I wasn’t glad it was over. Having finally received my discharge, I had one main thought in mind – to put the war behind me and move on.

And so I got up, brushed myself off, and set about rebuilding my life. I headed south to the port city of Durban, hoping to recover some degree of normality even though I was only too aware that White South Africa still had to face its own day of reckoning. I deliberately chose a job – cartooning – where I knew there would be little regimentation and I could be as rebellious against authority as I liked (and not have to fear the consequences). With a few exceptions, I didn’t bother to keep in contact with any of my former comrades. I didn’t attend any military reunions, nor did I join any of the groups that sprung up all over the place, lamenting the passing of the old White Rhodesia. I tried to blank it all out. I had no wish to become a prisoner of the past, locked in perpetual bitterness and regret, still harping on about how the politicians had betrayed us…

Possibly that was a mistake. Perhaps it would have been cathartic to share memories with those who had been through similar experiences. Maybe it could have helped with the healing and provided a comfort blanket of familiarity and support.

Certainly, the passing of two of my close friends, Kevin Ekblad and Graham “Big Bert” Lancaster, from my National Service days, brought the war back into abrupt focus for me. Although I hadn’t seen either of them for several years, their deaths hit me unexpectedly hard. Deeply saddened, I found myself sifting through old memories, searching for salient images that reminded me of our time together in the deep bush.

Kevin Ekblad (left) and Graham Lancaster (on radio).

We all had different perspectives on the war. Mine are probably more cynical than most. What was it all about? Had the sacrifices of those who had died, believing they were doing the right thing by fighting, been worth it? Was ours a lost cause, doomed to end in tears? Could there have been a different outcome had we settled earlier? By refusing to make meaningful concessions to more moderate leaders, right at the beginning, did we not cede the moral high ground to Robert Mugabe? Would the birth of independence not have been smoother and more amicable had we not gone on fighting as long as we did?

It is narrowly possible that there could have been a more positive ending although we shall never really know.

Compounding the tragedy, for me at least, was what happened after the guns stopped firing. With ‘liberation’ duly achieved, the incoming revolutionary government soon forgot the lofty ideals and talk of reconciliation. As so often happened in post-independent Africa, power became concentrated in the hands of a corrupt and incompetent elite, backed up by a brutal security apparatus. Despite the economy going into free fall and basic services collapsing, many of them became spectacularly wealthy

For good or ill, though, the war happened and I was part of it. As pointless and futile as it now often seems, it wasn’t a completely wasted experience. Having to survive in that sweat-soaked, dust-clinging, hostile environment taught me things about myself I probably would not have otherwise known. It made me appreciate the small things we take for granted – a comfortable bed, a hot bath, a good meal, and female company.

In life, there are times when we are faced with nothing but hard choices. In the army, I learnt how to cope and just keep soldiering on. It gave me a deeper understanding of who I am. I had seen only too clearly how war can coarsen one’s sensibilities. I emerged from it with a clearer idea of what sort of man I wanted to be and what I did not. In the aftermath, I became much more wary, too, about what causes I supported. It left me with an abiding distrust of politicians and institutions which I have been able to fashion into an emotionally satisfying career – political cartooning…

Accessing the Past in Lockdown

“Somewhere, deep down in the heart of each one of us, something yearns for the old land, and the old kindly people”

R.L.Stevenson

Maybe it has something to do with the current uncertainty, the depth of longing for all to be well again, but as lockdown drags on I find my thoughts drifting back, more and more often, to my youth. Right now, it seems a much safer place to be. At least you have the comfort of knowing what happened and how it all worked out.

I think there is more to it, though, than a mere desire to retreat to the warmth and innocence of childhood. All our lives are an amalgam of past, present and future. Trying to see clearly and to record what has been seen helps me work out how I got from there to here.

It is also a chance to meet my parents again, back the way they used to be. Each generation passes on something to the next and by looking afresh at what they did and thought is a way of discovering how they have lived on through me.

The difficulty of doing this is, of course, being able to gain access to one’s past. Over the years my memories have grown hazy and dim. The further back I go, the more fragmentary they become.

Sometimes they takes on the aura of a dream, a few tangible threads emerge from the miasma that is my brain. I clutch at their dim outline. At other times, just looking at an old photograph or reading an old letter, will bring long-forgotten things back to the surface.

What I am certain of is that the pivotal event of my early life occurred when I was about nine-years old. It was the year my father decided to relocate us from our smallholding outside of Salisbury to a remote farm in the Eastern Highlands of Nyanga. If anything can be termed a life-changing experience for me, this was it.

The property he purchased was in an incredibly beautiful part of the world.

I can still recall, with pin-point clarity, the journey there, driving up through the granite hills and miombo woodland, along a winding road to a crest where the small Nyanga Village lay. From here, the trail dropped down, with sudden abruptness, in to a huge valley, speckled with rocks, bushes and shadows, shimmering in the parchment dry heat as it receded in to the far haze.

View over valley, Nyanga.

Along its eastern flank rose the solid wall of the main Nyanga range. Running parallel to it, on the other side of the enormous valley, ran the Nyangombe River, which would later join the Ruenya which, in turn, flowed in to the mighty Zambezi. Beyond that lay more hills and mountains.

In contrast to the sweltering valley, the plateau on top of the mountains was cool and covered in open moorland and icy streams and seemed hardly Africa. In the rainy season, waves of multi-shadowed clouds would come rolling ponderously over them in never-ending processions.

For a boy of my romantic disposition it was like entering an enchanted world. All was mysterious, unexplored, rich with infinite possibilities. I loved the wildness, the sense of freedom.

Years later, as an undergraduate, I would read Wordsworth’s poem, “The Prelude”. It struck an immediate chord in me:

Fair seed-time had my soul, and I grew up

Foster’d alike by beauty and by fear;

Much favour’d in my birthplace, and no less

In that beloved Vale to which, erelong,

I was transplanted. Well I call to mind

(‘Twas at an early age, ere I had seen

Nine summers) when upon the mountain slope

The frost and breath of frosty wind had snapp’d…”

The mountains Wordsworth was writing about were those of the English Lake District. Mine were distinctly African ones.

There were many of them. On the Eastern side of the farm, the great brooding presence of Mount Muozi rose abruptly up from the plain to its castle-like knob. Even when covered in cloud you could feel its presence; its spirit seemed to permeate the very air. There was something ancient and troubling and mysterious about it which undoubtedly explained why it was held in awe by the locals and had become the focal point for an important rain-making cult.

View from old lands towards Muozi mountain. Note baobab.

The closer you got to it, the higher it towered above you. Again, the words of Wordsworth’s “The Prelude” seemed to fit:

…growing still in stature, the huge Cliff

Rose up between me and the stars, and still,

With measured motion, like a living thing,

Strode after me…”

Looking north, from the top of the castle, the main range surged away to Nyangui (“The Place of Shouting”), the big, bulky, colossus that marked the end of the Nyanga range, as well as serving as our corner boundary. It was also the mountain from which our farm took its name.

Nyangui (“The Place of Shouting”) mountain. Picture courtesy of Patrick Stidolph.

If Muozi looked like a vessel striving to break loose of its moorings than Nyangui was the bulwark that anchored it back.

Like Muozi, though, it could, when the mood took it, get quite spooky, radiating an air of almost tangible menace, especially when the skies grew sullen and arbitrary bolts of lightning started slashing through the sky. At certain times of the year the wind would grow wild and angry and come hurling down its slopes with an almost end-of-the world fury.

The other mountain which looms large in my childhood memories is Sedze although it was not actually on our farm but situated further back, towards the Nyanga village.

Sedze (‘Rhino’) mountain.

At the one end of it, just above Bende Gap, rose two great rock pinnacles, steeper and more pronounced than any others in the range. From the innermost of the two towers, the mountain sloped upwards in to a massive, domed, bulky, behemoth of rock fitted with clefts and rib-like fissures that gave it the appearance of some ancient animal afflicted by a strange lethargy.

Because of its resemblance to a sleeping pachyderm we always called it the “Rhino” mountain.

Returning from boarding school I always felt elated and light-headed to see the “Rhino” and yet at the same time near to tears because it meant I was almost home again.

Although it slopes were steep and uninhabited, the valley floor below was littered with scores of thatched huts and cattle kraals and patches of cultivated lands. Straggling along the top of one ridge, along which the road traversed, was a cluster of little shops with corrugated iron roofs. This was the Sedze Business Centre. For some reason these old buildings imprinted themselves in my mind; so much so that years later I felt compelled to do a painting of them.

Sedze mountain. View from Business Centre. Painting by Anthony Stidolph.

Our own house was a low rambling affair, close to a stream that ran down from Muozi. Later, my one brother, Paul, would build a slightly more elaborate and stylish homestead near a rocky outcrop, using white quartz for the walls and thatch for the roof. Positioned next to an old baobab, it commanded tremendous views over the surrounding mountains

Having laid idle for years, turning this stretch of Africa back in to a farm was hard work. There was plenty of bush to clear, furrows to dig, fences to put up. Because we were always short of cash, all the children were expected to chip in during the school holidays.

We were always a close family. The bond between us all, already strong, was strengthened during the Nyanga years.

In some ways it was a cloistered childhood. Outside my siblings and the farm mutts I had no companions or acquaintances to share it with. This did not make me unhappy or fretful. Nor did it bother me that I was not able to participate in all the entertainments and amusements – movies, parties, dating, sport – that other teenagers took as a matter of course.

Being so restricted and yet so active actually had its benefits even if I didn’t always fully appreciate them at the time. I developed an early love of nature which has never left me. I created a world of my own in to which I could slip away unnoticed. I learnt how to fall back on my own resources.

When I was not on the farm, I was away at boarding school, an institution I hated because it took me away from my beloved mountains. What strikes me now is the narrowness of life in it.

Ours was, of course, a segregated society and only white boys were allowed to attend the school. Beyond the cleaners, the ground staff and the kitchen workers we had little personal contact with the local African population.

It was a life, into which the great affairs of the world seemed hardly to intrude. Nor did any of us ever really bother to question the racial and quasi-Imperial doctrines of the time or the fairness of the system in to which we had, as relatively privileged white children, been born.

It was only during my final years at boarding school that the world of politics began to force its way in to my life.

In elections held in December, 1962, the right-wing Rhodesian Front, who had promised to deal ruthlessly with the nationalist menace and to entrench white rule permanently, had swept to power. One of their first demands was that the country be granted independence.

For the next three years the RF Government would be engaged in a series of fruitless negotiations with the British. With the situation at stalemate, it had become more and more obvious that we were headed for some sort of showdown. As young and ill-informed as I was, even I had become aware that, beneath the carefree surface of my life, the political sands were shifting fast.

On the 11th November, 1965, it finally happened. For weeks beforehand there had been much talk and speculation and an atmosphere of considerable excitement had built up, even among us schoolboys. Now, before a hushed nation, Smith made his big announcement – Rhodesia had declared its independence from Britain.

The effect was dramatic. Suddenly, politics occupied the minds of everybody in the country from the remote farms to the government offices, from prospector to priest.

It was an epochal event. Not only did it change the course of all our lives but it would eventually trigger a lot of soul-searching for me.

Caught in the same fusion of fear and excitement as everybody else, slowly, hesitantly, my attitudes began to change. Over the following years I would increasingly find myself wondering about the wisdom of the course of action the RF government had embarked on, especially once the Rhodesian Bush War began to exact its heavy toll.

I also started to look more critically at the society I had grown up in. Cut off as I was from the mainstream, even I could see that Rhodesia was not exactly a centre of cosmopolitan artistic energy and progressive thinking.

My family background, no doubt, played a factor in this growing awareness of the world around me. As a pilot, my father had travelled the length and breadth of the continent, as well as working in Arabia and Europe. Unlike many of his fellow countrymen who were hidebound, conformist and set in their ways of thinking (little realising they represented an age that was passing) his exposure to other people and cultures had left him relatively open-minded and tolerant about politics and race.

My parents and youngest sister: Monica, Nicky and Reg Stidolph. Nyangui in background.

Although he exuded a natural authority, my father was also at heart, something of an outsider, a maverick, a free thinker. While I may not have inherited his unwavering self-confidence, I like to think I did get a dose of his individualism, curiosity and refusal to be pigeon-holed.

In other areas we were different. I was the fourth son in a family of seven children and this undoubtedly impinged on my temperament. Whereas my three elder brothers were practical like my father I took after my mother, inheriting her artistic side. Unlike my brothers, too, I had no aptitude for the sciences.

Looking back at it all now, from the perspective of old age, I realise how much of my character and how many of my views and attitudes were forged back then. It also makes me realise how lucky I was to have the childhood I did.

Living in those beautiful surroundings helped foster my imagination. It taught me to see things and to value solitude and worship the ordinary dirt that sustains us. It also showed me that without peace and quiet you can miss your inner voice.

In that sense, those early years of deprivation and isolation helped prepare me for life under lockdown. I grew up used to keeping my own counsel and finding my way through the thickets.

Of course, the fact that I now live in one of the most breathtakingly scenic parts of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands – the Karkloof – also made my incarceration a lot easier to bear…

Sunset over Kusane Farm in pre-Lockdown days. Myself, sister Sally and her daughter-in-law, Tammy. Picture courtesy of Craig Scott.