The Third Way

There are three ways,” he said at last, “by which a very ordinary person like me can improve himself – or at least partly rise above insignificance. Through religion, through public service, or through study and reflection on the natural world”.

The Ten Thousand Things by John Spurling ( published by Duckworth Overlook).

Pic courtesy of Sally Scott

As a professional political cartoonist, working to a deadline, I have always done the bulk of my drawing at my studio desk. Sketching out in the open, direct from nature – en plein air as the French call it – I left to the Fine Artists (who I have always regarded as a separate species from me.) That changed on holiday in Mpumalanga. Watching my sister, the landscape artist Sally Scott, sitting down by a river drawing – a study in intense focus and concentration – got me thinking I wanted to try my hand at what she was doing.

And so I did.

I found it a singularly liberating exercise. I have always liked to think of myself as a fairly observant person but you don’t realise how much you are not seeing until you try and draw it. Drawing, in situ, trains the eye wonderfully. It forces you to concentrate your mind on what is happening in front of you.

Sitting there, on a rock or a log, with the swallows wheeling overhead like World War Two fighter planes, you come to view the natural world differently. You start to see your surroundings in a minute and comprehensive detail, noticing all sorts of little things you had overlooked before. The jagged shape of a rock, the dark texture of a strip of bark, and the rumpled sky overhead – all excite.

There is also spontaneity, fluency and freshness about drawings done like this; that is something which you often lose in a cartoon or a painting you have laboured over for a long time. There are, I was further pleased to discover, other benefits. I have always believed in the value of physical exercise and sketching outdoors has allowed me to combine my two passions – walking and art.

Armed with a satchel containing my sketchpad and pencils, a boyish exuberance reasserts itself. My old passion for ‘expeditions’ and boarding school-style ‘exeats’ comes to the fore again. I am like an excited schoolboy with a secret.

Already I can notice the difference. As a cartoonist, confined to my kitchen/studio I grew flabby and pallid. Since I started walking, the surplus kilos have melted away and I have picked up something resembling a tan. I feel as fit as the ubiquitous fiddle.

Moving up to Kusane Farm, in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, has, of course, helped me in all of this. There is something to draw at every turn of the path – a gappy stone wall, a stream, a tumbling waterfall, a few ancient pine trees, a collection of farm buildings. Kusane has become my new heartland. It is beautiful country to walk in and also to draw. The views take your breath away. The land rises and falls in long swells and because it has not been farmed for years you can still get a glimpse of its beautiful past.

Kusane – beautiful country to walk in...

In pursuing this new way of life I have anointed myself with the title of gentleman artist although I still bristle at any suggestion that what I do is a ‘hobby’. That strikes me as a strange and utterly inappropriate description for an intensely felt passion. Extending my range has made me more conscious of my lack of experience in outdoor drawing. While each completed drawing brings its particular feeling of triumph there is invariably some detail I am not happy about.

There is nothing unusual in any of this, of course. I have been a newspaper cartoonist for over thirty years and I still obsess over the small imperfections in my technique and seek ways to improve my style.

Such is the nature of art. A ratio of failures is built into it.

What I strive for, above all, is a naturalness of style; I don’t want my work to be overly-intellectual, too-clever, pretentious or contrived. By the same token, I don’t want it to look like it was done by some amateurish Sunday dabbler. One of the important lessons I have finally learnt is not to get too anxious about mistakes. For this reason, I no longer carry a rubber with me. If a drawing does not work out, I will scrap it and start again.

I have also had to break the habits of a lifetime. As a cartoonist, hunched over my drawing, I have always worked with a fairly controlled line. Now I am deliberately trying to loosen up my style, ignoring the superfluous and working as quickly and as intuitively as possible. Remembering what my Scottish art teacher, Jock Forsyth, told me at school, all those years ago, about squinting enabling you to make out the key points more clearly, I sometimes try that. Often it is only on the third or fourth attempt that the picture begins to take a coherent shape.

All of which leads back to a fundamental question – why draw? I obviously can’t speak for others but in my case, it has always felt like it was something that was passed down to me. It is an in-built compulsion. A trust bestowed upon me. My vocation.

There is a blank piece of paper in front of me and I must fill it.

Like Wang Meng, the famous Chinese artist who lived during the last days of the Mongol occupation – and is the central character in the book quoted above – early on in my life I decided I did not want to follow the paths that led to either religion or public service. That left art and the contemplation of nature as the only way open to me if I wanted to rise above my insignificance. Like Wang Cheng, too, I don’t do this primarily for commercial reasons (although I am happy to accept payment!). For me, it is about solitude, contemplation, observation and the sheer joy of self-expression.

It is a reminder of what makes life precious…

Dusting my Soul

Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life”

Pablo Picasso

Confession time (in case it isn’t obvious): my name is Anthony Stidolph (aka Stidy) and I am an art addict. It is my form of DIY therapy, my way of coping with what seems an increasingly dangerous and dysfunctional world. I am a believer in art’s healing properties, and its ability to refresh and reinvigorate. It can help the head, mend the heart (and – when it is not going the way you want it to – drive you to distraction).

When I studied art at school – obtaining a distinction at Ó’ Level – I always found myself naturally attracted to drawing rather than painting. I was certainly more proficient in it. My early attempts at putting paint (back then this was limited to prehistoric powder paints which I never got the hang of) on paper were mostly an unmitigated mess. And so pencil, pen and ink became my chosen instruments and when I decided to make a career out of my art, it was to cartooning I turned.

It was only later, with the prospect of retirement looming, that I finally plucked up the courage to venture into colour once more. Thinking big, I decided to go the whole hog and start with oils, which I had never used before. I did this mostly because I knew oil can stand much more abuse in its handling than other mediums (such as watercolour). Any mistakes or errors can be easily covered. You can constantly construct and reconstruct, at leisure.

My first efforts were very tentative and not too successful. Expanding my range made me only more conscious of my lack of experience in this field. I went through periods of doubt and self-questioning. Had I left it too late in my creative life to indulge my craving for colour and pick up the necessary skills to be any good at it? Held on a leash for so long, I did not know quite how to channel my creative energy.

I am nothing if not obsessive, however. I battled on doggedly. My moods continued to alternate between youthful enthusiasm and discouragement. Finally, I began to enjoy it. I discovered that if you are more relaxed, you can concentrate better.

Although I did not take up painting until the middle years of my life, intimations of a desire to do so appeared much earlier. In some ways, my long career as a cartoonist laid the groundwork for what followed. For a start, I had learnt that it is not necessarily part of the job to copy nature exactly as it is and that by simplifying it and omitting the superfluous you could signal just as much and also make your art more immediately accessible.

As with cartooning, too, you begin to develop your own style over time too, almost unconsciously. It is like a signature, your personal handwriting, something that develops without you having to think too much about it. Aspects of your personality, preoccupations and predispositions begin to shine through.

Having decided to take the plunge into oils, it was almost inevitable that I should be drawn to landscape painting. I grew up on a remote but beautiful farm in Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands. It was situated in a wilderness of mountains, kopjes and hills. In every distance stood strange shrouded landscapes, dotted with baobabs and inset with rivers and fleeting pools. Mysterious, unmortared, stone ruins, scarcely touched by archaeologists, stretched for miles upon miles along the valley floors and right up onto the mountain slopes into the narrowest of crevasses and the steepest cliff faces.

These magical scenes provided a treasury of wonders for a lively, enquiring mind.

To take up landscape painting – or at least be successful – I think you have to have this inherent sensitivity or “feel” for scenery. This is the unteachable part of it. In my lifetime, I have seen way too many landscape paintings which, while technically competent, just lack this intrinsic thrill – or SOUL. It is merely painting by formula, there is no sense of an aesthetic experience, they lack the understanding that comes from constant association with a scene. It is landscape done through a tourist’s rather than a painter’s eye.

Over the succeeding years, I have continued to plug away at my painting, trying hard to establish a balance between seeing and imagining while exploring the possibilities and harmonies of colour and form. I lay no claim to having in any way mastered the subject. I am only too aware of my limitations and shortcomings (I battle with my greens, for example). However, I am not yet ready to throw in the towel or toss away my paintbrushes. I plan to carry on looking and thinking and experiencing and practising, knowing that in art, knowledge assists invention and helps you overcome creative obstacles.

The alternative – which I don’t fancy – is to do an “art detox” and quit…

PORTFOLIO:

Herewith is a selection of my paintings which I have divided into sections.

NYANGA SCENES

I have cherished my memories of the Nyanga landscape all my life so it was inevitable they should insinuate their way into my painting and that I should try to recapture the warm feelings I had about them.

BAOBAB PAINTINGS

With its gigantesque bulk and primitive appearance, the baobab is undoubtedly the tree of Africa. I also love painting them…

KZN SCENES

These days I don’t have to stray to find too far to find scenes to paint. The beautiful Karkloof Valley, where I live, is full of them…

OTHER PAINTINGS

I still love travelling further afield though. The Bushveld and the Karoo are two favourite destinations…

A Love Letter to Kusane

“If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.”

Henry David Thoreau

It is probably my British heritage but there is nothing I love more than dashing madly about the countryside, in all types of weather – sunny, showery, cool, breezy – with a pair of binoculars in one hand and a camera in the other. Given this genetic predisposition of mine, it is perhaps just as well I live in an area where it is very easy to feed the habit.

A rambling man...Pic courtesy of Sally Scott.

Kusane is a farm with a commitment to conservation. All I have to do is step out of my front door, skip around the corner of the balcony and then slip across the gangplank that connects it to the ground beyond and I am into the unspoilt, open, pristine countryside. In a moment everything is altered. Any cares or worries I may have quickly get left behind. All my senses come alive. I am agog with anticipation. Another day of happy rambling awaits…

View from Kusane over Karkloof Valley

I never tire of these walks. The countryside is breathtakingly beautiful. There are subtle changes to it every day and every season. These become more pronounced after the first spring rains fall. The colours become more vivid and intense, wildflowers burst through the earth. As the summer storms intensify, the greater the profusion around me. In what seems like the blink of an eye, the deciduous trees start unfurling their new leaves. As sun and rain come together, the lengthening grass shimmies all around me. Great idle puddles lie across my path.

The first Yellow-billed Kites swoop over Kusane. Then swallows and other migrants arrive. They seem happy to be back and they let you know it. The cuckoos start calling, none more so than the ubiquitous ‘ Piet-my-Vrou‘ (Red-chested Cuckoo) who drones on for hours on end, often way into the night. In the dense canopy of trees up by the main house the Village Weavers go into a frenzy of nest-building as if operating according to some unconscious internal calendar.

While all this activity is erupting around me I ramble on. Amongst the comforting familiarity of everyday landmarks, I still stumble on the unexpected. One day, I might stop and watch a female Spurfowl emerge from a thicket with her stripey chicks in tow and scuttle over the road in front of me. Or a kestrel will skim across the edge of my vision, hover, then slip forward again, its head rock still, its sharp eyes scanning the wide landscape for the luckless rats, mice and moles that form its staple diet. On another day, I might see a regal Reedbuck ram, silhouetted against the outline of some rocky ridge, lord of all he surveys, Sometimes, too, in the magic of twilight, I will hear the plaintive, heart-wrenching call of a flock of cranes flying above me, wings gracefully waving. My heart soars out to reach them. They have become my spirit birds.

Living up here, close to the sky and the elements, nature has become both my solace and my passion. Nor is my love affair confined just to the boundaries of Kusane Farm. It extends down into the valley, laid out below as in a view from an aeroplane window, then stretches out across the plains to the Karkloof hills beyond – taking in, as it goes, the iconic Loskop hill which stands alone in the middle of it all like some ancient, all-knowing, sentinel. Local lore has it that this dominant feature once served as an important rain-making site. Judging by the tumultuous storms that get magically conjured up around it, I can believe that…

A mini-storm conjured out of nowhere. Note lighting striking Loskop hill, once a rain-making site.

This, then, has become my heartland.

By going out each day and covering the same patch – or patches – I am slowly building up a permanent record of it. In the course of my exploring, I have taken hundreds and hundreds of photographs. I am not a professional photographer but I love taking pictures because they help me to remember. The ones below are but a small selection of these…

They represent a year in a life. They are my act of homage and recognition, my salutation, my love letter to this extraordinarily beautiful valley and the creatures who inhabit it.

GALLERY:

Nature is all circles and cycles and living up at Kusane you soon feel yourself becoming part of the ever-changing seasons. Winter, for example, is a time of low temperatures and dryness in which the animals and birds have to go searching for food…

This year (2021), it snowed for the first time since I moved up to Kusane. Hailing originally from Zimbabwe, I haven’t had much exposure to this white winter wonderland experience beloved of newspaper headline writers but standing on my balcony, in the silvery half-light, it felt quite magical…

The strange white stuff that fell from the sky didn’t seem to bother most of the weavers at Kusane who carried on with their daily routines. A few were not so sanguine…

Winter is also the firebreak-burning season at Kusane. It is a busy time of the year for the farm manager, Michael Ndlovu, our one-man fire brigade…

As the weather begins to warm up, the first wildflowers appear. I did not plant them. Their seeds get harboured safely in the earth ready to burst forth when the first spring showers fall…

The flowers, in turn, bring in butterflies, bees and other winged insects. Soon, there is a whole world of life in the fields…

Summer is storm season. Sometimes, when I am out walking, I will spot a deep purple wall coming towards me. The next thing I know I will be engulfed in hissing water and rumbling thunder. I get back home drenched to the core…

The real drama is often in the skies; an ever-shifting vista shot through with blue and rippling with an energy that can quickly turn explosive and jagged, even become slightly apocalyptic – a foreboding of mayhem…

A regular routine of mine, throughout the year, is to drive through the valley to the Karkloof Farmer’s Market on a Saturday morning. I go there, mostly, because I like browsing around Huddy’s second-hand books where there are regularly literary gems to be found. The journey can often be as rewarding as the destination…

African Spoonbill feeding in a dam in the Karkloof Valley.

The Karkloof is a good place to spot cranes. Cranes are becoming increasingly rare everywhere so we are lucky to have all three South African species (including the critically endangered Wattled Crane. There are only around 260 left) occurring here. There is not a day in my life that is not improved by seeing them…

Occasionally, driving through the farmlands, you come across other unusual birds like these two…

The road to the Karkloof Farmer’s Market takes me past the iconic Loskop, a hill that continues to exert a strange pull on my imagination…

The Karkloof area is good cycling and running country too…

The hour after dawn is nature’s happy hour, a moment when the world still belongs to animals such as this regal Reedbuck ram, surveying his domain…

It is also a good time to see birds because they are usually at their most active then…

To try and seduce birds to come and live at my home I have erected two bird tables on either side of the building. By far the most regular and numerous visitors are the Village Weavers but a host of other birds have taken to frequenting it…

This Cape Sparrow and African Firefinch like to drop in as well…

Seasons of mist and mellow fruitfulness. Kusane lies in the KwaZulu-Natal mistbelt. In summer the mist comes drifting in most evenings engulfing the countryside in a blanket of damp grey…

The sunrises at Kusane can be spectacular…

The sunsets equally so…

Pic courtesy of Craig Scott.

Counting my Blessings on Longclaw Lane

How sweet I roam’d from field to field,

And tasted all the summer’s pride,

‘Til I the prince of love beheld,

Who in the sunny beams did glide.”

William Blake

The Field – upper portion.

To say we have had little to cheer about over the last few years would be an understatement. As a political cartoonist, whose jobs involves trawling through the daily news headlines looking for somebody or something to lampoon, I can safely vouch for this. Faced with the endless litany of woes – climate change, Covid-19, lockdown, a collapsing economy, state capture, rampant crime, decaying municipalities, crumbling infrastructure and corrupt, venal, and singularly inept politicians – it is often very difficult to see the funny side of it all.

In my doubting mind, it sometimes feels like I will never escape the dark shadows closing in on me on all sides.

But there is hope even if it is fleeting and ephemeral. A country mouse at heart, I continue to search for and find solace in nature and simple delights. Don’t get me wrong! I am well aware that my love affair with the wilderness may not be reciprocated and that it includes a degree of anthropomorphism, the great bogey of science.

That doesn’t stop it from having meaning for me. I see no need to expunge these feelings from my interaction with nature.

I don’t have to go far to look for this alternative world. Since I moved up to Kusane Farm and started planting lots of indigenous trees and bushes and flowering shrubs – my contribution to saving the planet– I have gathered a flourishing population of birds and other wildlife in my garden.

Every morning the Village Weavers gather in noisy, scraggly groups at the bird feeder. They are, in turn, joined by several varieties of sparrow, pigeons and doves. Plus, in summer, the very tiresome, testosterone-loaded male Pin-tailed Whydah who makes a nuisance of himself by trying to drive all the other birds away from the food table – just so he can claim it for his wife (in winter he loses his beautiful plumage and his stroppy attitude and becomes a submissive little nobody you barely notice).

As part of my daily routine, I also put out a little grated cheese on a rock that brings in the Red-winged Starlings, the Cape Robin, the Cape Wagtail, the Southern Boubous, the Black-capped Bulbul, the Olive Thrush and the Speckled Mousebirds. In winter, I sometimes add a little Jungle Oats porridge to go along with it, just to warm them up.

The news about the easy pickings has swiftly spread and other birds have started pulling into my roadhouse. A much-welcomed newcomer has been the Sombre Greenbul. Its name is something of a mystery to me for its call (described by SASOL Birds of Southern Africa as “a piercing ‘weeeewee’, followed by a liquid chortle…”) is one of the most cheerful you will hear. Colour-wise it is perhaps a little on the drab side but no more so than a host of other dull-coloured birds. Preferring to call from deep within the canopy of a tree, it is a bird you hear more often than see.

It has been joined in recent months by a Dusky Flycatcher, a tiny bird with the typical flycatcher behaviour of making short dashes up into a cloud of gnats or other flying insects before returning to its favourite perch. Endearingly happy little characters they can, over time, become quite tame.

Dusky Flycatcher

The large corrugated-iron barn I live in has also provided the right sort of habitat for a host of other birds to call home. In the cold weather, the Rock Pigeons like to sit and warm themselves on the pipes that lead to the solar panel and geyser on the roof (they also nest in the rafters). Wagtails strut past them, tails endlessly bobbing. The sparrows make a home in all the nooks and crannies. In summer our resident pair of Greater-striped Swallows like to sit on the railings and twitter away, especially just before they are about to undertake their perilous journey North.

For the last three seasons, I have also had an Amethyst Sunbird nesting on the Air Plant which hangs on my balcony. I feel a distinct sense of triumph that it has elected to live and raise its family with me. I like to think of it as a blessing from the gods, a portent of happiness (that’s me getting all anthropomorphic again!)

The beautiful Malachite Sunbird is the other common sunbird in my garden, especially in winter when the aloes I planted are in bloom. This dashing, shiny bird often chooses to sit on some prominent point from where it twitters happily away while keeping a sharp eye out for any rival male which it will quickly chase off.

My birding is not, of course, confined to the garden. I have several particular patches of ground I like to visit regularly throughout the year.

Today, I elect to head down the familiar route that takes me through our front gate and past the house with the gumtrees and horde of barking dogs. At the next gate, I come to, just past the cattle crush and sorting pens, I take an abrupt left turn down Nicholson Highway. Despite the name we have bestowed on it, is not a highway, just a nondescript, muddy, farm road that leads through a large, cow-inhabited, rectangular field to a slightly better maintained road on the other side.

Going for a stroll down Nicholson Highway.

The big field slopes upward, South to North, from the old stone wall built by the Italian POWs during WW2 for purposes unknown – other than giving them something to do, I suppose. At the top of it, one has a breathtaking view over the entire Karkloof Valley with its regularised grid of big fields, forests and dams. The very distinctive, leonine-shaped Loskop and the purple-tinged Karkloof hills provide a suitably dramatic backdrop to this ever pleasing vista.

There are subtle changes here, every day and every season. Close your eyes in summer and you could almost imagine you are in Ireland because of all the vibrant greens, low scudding clouds and mysterious mists. In winter, when the fields are covered in stubble and the colours are more subdued, there is a stark, minimalist beauty to the landscape.

As I enter the field, via Nicholson Highway, I scan the grass with my binoculars. A bird flies up calling, a plaintive, drawn-out ‘wheeee…’ It is the appropriately named Wailing Cisticola. A little further on I see another Cisticola. A smaller one with a slightly fanned-out tail. It is known as the Zitting (formerly Fantailed) Cisticola because – you guessed it – of the ‘zit’ it makes at the crest of each undulation during its display flight…

It is open country here and – I suspect because the cattle who sometimes graze here provide good manure – the grass is longer and more luxuriant than our wiry, unpalatable, stuff next door. Because of this, it has become a haven for grass-loving species. They like it because it has ground cover and it has food.

My alternate name for Nicholson Highway is Longclaw Lane because this is very much their kind of country (the Yellow-throated is our common Longclaw). The bird’s plaintive, fugitive call, as it lifts into the sky, always sets my veins a-tingle. Likewise, several varieties of the Pipit have staked their claim along the road. I have seen both African and Plain-backed on many occasions.

Widely but locally dispersed across South Africa, the Secretary Bird makes the odd stop-over in the field. Taking its name from the long, quill-like, feathers protruding from its head, the Secretary bird is, in fact, an eagle with very long legs. It puts these legs to good use. My battered old copy of Roberts Birds of South Africa describes this succinctly: “After landing runs for some distance with wings outstretched. Snakes are attacked with violent blows from the feet while the wings are held outspread as a shield. Great care is taken to make certain the snake is dead before it is swallowed, whole if it is small...”

Secretary Bird

In the past, the field has yielded some other surprises. Bustards are very shy and wary, so it is a privilege to encounter them anywhere in the wild. You can imagine my excitement, then, when I came across not one but THREE Denham’s Bustard, feeding in the upper end of the field. The Denham’s is the second-largest bustard in South Africa (prime honours go to the Kori Bustard, the largest flying bird in the world) and is listed as NEAR THREATENED.

Cranes are equally rare across the world so I also consider myself lucky to have seen all three of the South African species (the Wattled, the Grey-crowned and the Blue), at various times, here. They are special. Stately, regal and a little otherworldly, their elegant courtship rituals are one of the great wildlife spectacles.

Having made a mental count of all the birds I have seen so far, I continue down the winding road until it comes to a T Junction. On the opposite side, in a paddock, a couple of horses are being put through their paces at the local riding academy. Another noisy dog lives here too. A big black one. We didn’t hit it off when we first met so I prefer to avoid it.

I accordingly turn and follow the fence line down to a farm dam (and away from the big, black dog). The grease-gleen of the early morning sunlight glitters romantically on its water, as three dabchicks create patterned artworks as they swim away from me towards the far shore. A large White-breasted Cormorant lifts itself out of the water and flaps noisily off. The Blacksmith Plovers, I saw earlier, are now patrolling the edge of the water. As soon as they see me they give their characteristic loud, ringing, metallic ‘tink, tink, tink’ alarm call, from which they derive their name.

They don’t seem to want me around either. They are not alone in their antipathy.

On the far side, partly concealed in the long grass, a pair of male reedbuck follow my movements with worried eyes. An uninvited intruder in their private domain, not wanting to scare them, I high tail it along the dam wall, hoping they won’t take fright. They retreat a little further up the inlet but don’t runoff.

There is another panoramic view from the wall, one that shows more dams and more fields full of hay bales and groups of contented cows grazing on the sloping hillside you look across to. In winter frost often clenches the ground below the wall, the relentless summer rain can turn it into a muddy quagmire in which animals get stuck.

Frost below dam

Once over the wall, I follow the now faded path that leads back to our side of the field. The path used to lead to a farm shebeen on the next door property but that was closed down for security reasons.

Although now cropped low, the grass is still plentiful at this end of the field. At certain times of the year, there are eruptions of flowers amongst it which draw the insects in. Bees and flower-visiting wasps buzz about. Butterflies too. For three days, two-years ago, this area was alive with flickering wings as the annual midsummer migration of the thousands upon thousands of Brown-veined White Butterfly (also known as Pioneer Caper White) took place.

The distance these tiny creatures cover on this epic trek (depending on climatic conditions their numbers vary each year. This year it didn’t seem to happen or, if it did, I missed it) are mind-boggling. Starting on the cold shores of the South-west Cape, they fly as far as sub-tropical Mozambique.

Walking along the fire break that leads back home I keep my eyes peeled. I have seen Serval here twice before, returning home from a night out hunting. I don’t see one today but it doesn’t bother me. The fact they are so seldom spotted only adds to their mystery and allure.

For the rest, I am happy to just be wandering along this path, enjoying this small moment of fleeting time. Out here I can get a kind of feeling of belonging and recognition, a level of engagement, a sense of purpose, an appreciation of beauty that has absolutely nothing to do with the latest news stories or the world beyond these hills.

And for that, I feel blessed…

Morning Birdsong and a Little Poetry

‘Hope’ is the thing with feathers –

That perches in the soul –

And sings the tune without the words –

And never stops – at all

Emily Dickinson.

Does life hold any greater pleasure than lying in bed, soaking up the early morning melody of bird song? I tend to think not! With the dawn comes enchantment.

It was certainly one of my main reasons for wanting to quit city life and return to my rural roots.

Setting up home on Kusane Farm, overlooking the Karkloof, I had to, first, try and get to know all the local birds and familiarise myself with their repertoire of songs. The more I grew accustomed to their various calls, the more I began to feel a part of things.

My view over the Karkloof Valley.

Birds sing most in spring because that is usually when they are courting and nesting. Of course, they don’t only vocalise because they are trying to attract a mate. They also call to warn of predators, defend their territory and distinguish between friend or foe.

Most species have highly distinctive songs so this is often a good way of identifying them. Even within a particular species it can help as, for example, with all the dun-coloured Cisticolas who are otherwise often extremely difficult to tell apart.

Birds like to sing early in the morning because that is when sound travels best and furthest. To avoid interference they will often – but not always – sing from a perch above ground level. Sometimes there are a few false starts. A dove starts to coo, changes its mind and goes back to sleep. This is followed by a lull as the whole feathered choir shuffles to their seats, clear their throats and stretch their vocal chords.

And then the joyous symphony begins…

The listing habit has an old and honourable pedigree dating back to ancient Sumeria, so I take some pride in being able to add my little tally of bird calls to it. My list is short, incomplete and contains no rarities because I have confined it, for the most part, to the more common garden birds of my area.

For me, the most bewitching of all these calls belongs to the Southern BouBou, the male of which, can be seen here taking a shower under my garden spray. The resident female (also shown) is sweet to his sound, invariably answering it with a tune of her own.

My old, much-thumbed and annotated, copy of Roberts Birds of South Africa describes their voice this way: “A duet of ‘ko-ko’ replied by ‘kweet’ or ‘boo-boo’ replied to by ‘whee oo’; often reversed thus ‘too, whee’ answered by ‘boo-boo’” The alarm note a guttural ‘cha-chacha’ or ‘bizykizzkizz’”.

In other words, it is a rather long, idiosyncratic and complex love song…

Another regular member of my dawn chorus is the Cape Robin-Chat, seen here sitting in a Sneezewood tree (Ptaeroxylon obliquum) I planted when I first came up to Kusane.

Cape Robin-Chat.

Friendly and inquisitive, he may lack the grandmaster skills of his cousin, the White-browed Robin-Chat (formerly Heuglin’s Robin) – whose song is complex, subtle and piercingly beautiful – but he sings his little heart out and for that he gets full marks. He is also, invariably, the first bird up and the last to go to bed.

What William Blake observed about the English robin, could just as much apply to his free-spirited African equivalent:

A Robin Red breast in a Cage

Puts all Heaven in a Rage.”

Number Three on my list is the Olive Thrush. Like the robin, he is one of the first birds to break the tension of waiting for sunrise, bursting in to song just before the first streaks of light appear in the East.

In a poem dedicated to this common garden bird, the Grahamstown poet, Harry Owen, describes it, rather beautifully, as an “Avian Buddha…hunched up in ruffled chestnut gentleness…”

His emotional and aesthetic reaction differs somewhat from that of the English poet, Ted Hughes, who wrote:

Terrifying are the attent sleek thrushes on the lawn,

More coiled steel than living – a poised

Dark deadly eye…”

Cold killing machine or not – and he is an effective hunter as this photograph shows – I am still happy to wake up every morning to its uplifting, fluty call.

Olive Thrush.

If I had to name the Joker in the Kusane pack, my vote would go to the Dark-capped Bulbul (formerly Black-eyed Bulbul) – or Toppie as it is more affectionately known.

Black-capped Bulbul (or’Toppie’).

One of the most common and widespread birds in South Africa, the fruit-loving Toppie is more to be admired for his persistence and effort than the quality of his singing – but he is unfailingly cheerful and upbeat and that makes him all the more loveable.

It would also take a very sneaky snake to slither by without a Toppie spotting it and notifying the universe!

As something of a nomad, a bird who comes and goes seemingly on whim, the Black-headed Oriole is an infrequent participant in the Kusane Farm Dawn Chorus.

Few birds, however, are so dramatically beautiful and it would take a very cold heart indeed not to thrill to its wonderfully liquid call. It is like listening to the bird-world equivalent of Mozart’s Magic Flute.

As one of the more charismatic bird species, the oriole has been co-opted in to the name and logo of various sports teams. In America, for example, there are the Baltimore Orioles. Closer to home, the Zulu name impofana has been given to the Eurasian Oriole because of the nick-name “Mpofana”of the Kaiser Chief’s Football Club. The name refers to the striking yellow and black colours worn by the teams’ players (see Zulu Bird Names and Bird Lore by Adrian Koopman).

Although it is a highly subjective question, I suspect most South Africans, if asked, would name the African Fish Eagle as the bird whose call best cptures the spirit of wild Africa.

While I, too, am always deeply moved by its haunting evocative, cry, I would, if forced to do so, choose a different bird as my favourite – the humble, common Cape Turtle Dove. Maybe it is a question of association as much as call. For me, the Turtle Doves familiar, comforting coo ( rendered, in English, as: “How’s father, how’s father” or, if your conscience is bothering you: “Work harder! Work harder!”,) carries all sorts of echoes and evoacations of a childhood spent amongst the beautiful Nyanga mountains and deep in my beloved bushveld.

With the possible exception of the Fiery-necked Nightjar it touches a depth in me no other bird does.

The English poet William Blake, who seems to have spent as much time conversing with Angels and Demons as ordinary mortals and knew a bit about these things, had something to say about doves in captivity as well:

A Dove house fill’d with Doves & Pigeons

Shudders Hell thro’ all its regions.”

Although they stay mostly down in the valley, I think I can safely add cranes to my list because their sound drifts up to me as I sit on my verandah sipping my early morning cup of rooibos waiting for the sun to come up. With their elegant courtship rituals, fidelity and haunting calls, cranes have, since antiquity, exerted a peculiar hold on the human imagination.

Greek and Roman myths portrayed their dance as love of joy and a celebration of life and associated them with Apollo and Hephaestus. In Chinese myths, cranes were symbolically connected with the idea of immortality.

In South Africa, the Zulu King Shaka reputedly wore a single Blue Crane feather.

They are special. On the ground they are exceptionally regal, elegant in stature and stately in bearing. In flight, they are equally impressive, thrusting forward with powerful wing beats, their heads and necks fully extended in front of them.

In his book, The Birds of Heaven, the author Peter Matthiessen saw cranes as “striking metaphors for the vanishing wilderness of our once bountiful earth.”

We are very fortunate in that all three of South Africa’s resident cranes – the Blue, the Grey Crowned and the Wattled – occur on our door step. They are also shy and wary so I was quite lucky to get as close as I did to this pair of endangered Wattled Cranes without disturbing them.

Wattled Crane.

My list would not be complete without a migrant although they only call in summer. The sound of the cuckoo’s call, for instance, is so familiar and so much part of our inherited sonic landscape that we mark our seasons by its appearance.

The most obvious of these, because he is so vocal and so well known, would be the Red-chested Cuckoo (the ubiquitous Piet-my Vrou) but since he tends to stay down on the river line I have opted for the Dideric Cuckoo instead. As his brood host is the weaver, of which we have many, he is the common cuckoo in our garden.

Perched on top of the uppermost branches of a dead pine, bill arrowed skywards, he cuts a conspicuous figure in his striking green and white tunic. Throwing his whole body into the effort, he trills out his clear, persistent ‘dee-dee-deederick‘. His female, if he has one, may choose to respond with a plaintive ‘deea deea deea‘.

Diederic Cuckoo (right), plus Cape Sparrow.

Like all cuckoos, it is very swift in flight. John Clare, who has been described as the “finest poet of Britain’s minor naturalists and the finest naturalist of Britain’s major poets” called it perfectly when he wrote:

‘The cuckoo, like a hawk in flight,

With narrow pointed wings

Whews over our heads – soon out of sight

And as she flies she sings…

Another bird whose call captures something of the presence, the spirit, the essence of the old Africa is, for me anyway, the Natal Spurfowl. Preferring thick cover, it more often than not remains invisible. It is just a loud, agitated, scoffing, scolding noise deep in the foliage.

Having scoped out the situation, my resident pair will sometimes explode out the bushes and streak across the lawn lawn, a fleeting chaos of orange bills, feathers and moving legs, heading for the thick bramble on the other side of the fence where they like to hide from the prying eyes of predators.

Natal Spurfowl – a loud, agitated,scoffing, scolding noise

The Zulu name inkwali gives some indication of is call. To quote Roberts again: “The bird is more often to be heard at sunrise and sunset, sounding like ‘kwaali, kwaali, kwaali’ …” Newman’s gives a similar rendering: “The call is a harsh ‘kwali, KWALI, kwali‘; when alarmed utters a raucous cackling…”

Sasol gives a slightly different interpretation: “Raucous, screeching ‘krrkik-ik-ik”. They all agree on the main point though – they kick up quite a fuss…

I hesitated about including the Hadedah Ibis because its similarly deafening ‘ha-ha-da-da’ is not a song. It is is a din. A rioutos cacophony, far more effective as a wake-up call than any alarm clock, gong or bugle.

Having happily transplanted itself in to our cities and towns, it has become such an iconic bird, its familiar call so much part of our everyday lives, I decided in the end it would be a travesty to leave it out…

An unmistakeable, almost prehistoric-looking creature, the Hadedah’s name is, of course, onomatopeic; it’s a sort of phonetic reminder of its most obvious attribute – so extraordinary a noise as to be once heard and never forgotten. As they fly it seems to get louder and quicker and more excited, ending in a burst of dirty hilarity, as if one of them cracked an off-colour joke…

Hadedah Ibis.

My former Witness colleague (and good friend), the poet Clive Lawrance, devoted three poems to the Hadedah in his wonderfully wry and whimsical little compendium, Butterflies & Blackjacks: Poems from A Maritzburg Garden (to which I contributed the illustrations).

He captured something of the birds unruly character and strange charm with these lines:

‘Every day three hadedas swoop

into my garden; they come

in turquoise-brown-metallic coats

that glow in the sun; or they come

bedraggled with drizzle; even, sometimes,

plastered with rain and muck;

but

always they come…’

The numerous members of our ever-expanding Village Weaver colony don’t so much sing as keep up an excited, incessant, day-long chatter between themselves, especially at nest building time. It is the male who builds the nest and he has to be fully on his game because his bride to be is a very exacting arbiter of what does and doesn’t constitute a highly desirable piece of real estate.

It is a taxing business, requiring considerable skill and mental acumen, and he has to work his tail feathers off to please his partner. If the nest fails to meet the female’s high standard, he will tear it down and start all over again.

As a result the drive-way up to the house is regularly strewn with discarded homes.

When we first came up to Kusane there was no resident Helmeted Guineafowl flock on the farm. We tried to rectify this by importing a batch of guineafowl chicks and raising them, with mixed results for they frequently fell victim to our local predators.

Besides being highly vocal – Roberts’ describes their clattering, machine gun-style of delivery as ‘a grating, rapidly stuttered “kekekekekek”’ – they are also very jittery birds. If suddenly disturbed or frightened by anything, real or imagined (it is often the latter), they all take to the air, their wings making a whooshing noise as they alternatively flap and sail, labour and glide either on to the top of the farm owners’ vegetable tunnel, the roof of the house or the topmost branches of the surrounding trees.

This habit of fleeing at the first hint of trouble has given rise to a Zulu proverb: Impangel’ enhle ngekhal’ igijima (a good guineafowl is one that calls while running) – meaning, to put it in Shakesperian terms, that discretion IS the better part of valour…

The Zulu name for guineafowl, impangele, was also given to one of Mzilikazi’s regiments because they wore its black and white spotted feathers and also, presumably, because of the active way this bird moves in packs through the undergrowth.*

Most people respond positively to all birdsong. Whole anthologies of poetry and prose have been devoted to the subject, celebrating it as some sort of natural miracle.

Alas, I can see nothing poetic or anywhere near miraculous about the incredibly noisy sideshow my two strutting, foolish roosters – Rowdy and Motley – with their Chauntecleer-size inflated egos, produce each morning.

Determined to shame each other – and all the other roosters in the district – in the high-decibel stakes, they like to do a short practice run around 0130am, just as I am getting in to my deepest sleep. Then, with military precision, at exactly 0430am, the floodgates open and they don’t close until late in the day.

As I bury my head under my pillow, desperately trying to shut out the racket, the voice of the poet Sir Charles Sidley (1639-1701) speaks down the centuries to me:


“Thou cursed Cock, with thy perpetual noise,

Mayst thou be capon* made, and lose thy Voice,

Or on a dunghill mayst thou spread thy blood,

And Vermin prey upon thy craven brood…”

But then I remember the lines from Robert Frost:

The fault must partly have been in me.

The bird was not to blame for his key.

And of course there must be something wrong

In wanting to silence any song.”

(*A ‘capon’,for those not familiar with the word, is a castrated chicken fattened for eating)

REFERENCES:

Newman’s Birds of South Africa by Kenneth Newman (1983 edition, published by SAPPI)

Roberts Birds of South Africa by McLaghlan & Liversidge (1970 edition, published by Cape & Transvaal Printers Ltd)

Sasol Birds of Southern Africa (2011 edition, published by Struik Nature)

The Genius of Birds by Jennifer Ackerman (published by Penguin)

The Penguin Book of Animal Verse (1965 edition)

*Zulu Bird Names and Bird Lore by Adriaan Koopman (2019 edition, published by UKZN Press)

SPECIAL THANKS to Harry Owen and Clive Lawrance for allowing me to quote from their poems and my brother, Patrick, and his wife, Marie, for giving me my first bird book thus triggering off a life-long passion……

Accessing the Past in Lockdown

“Somewhere, deep down in the heart of each one of us, something yearns for the old land, and the old kindly people”

R.L.Stevenson

Maybe it has something to do with the current uncertainty, the depth of longing for all to be well again, but as lockdown drags on I find my thoughts drifting back, more and more often, to my youth. Right now, it seems a much safer place to be. At least you have the comfort of knowing what happened and how it all worked out.

I think there is more to it, though, than a mere desire to retreat to the warmth and innocence of childhood. All our lives are an amalgam of past, present and future. Trying to see clearly and to record what has been seen helps me work out how I got from there to here.

It is also a chance to meet my parents again, back the way they used to be. Each generation passes on something to the next and by looking afresh at what they did and thought is a way of discovering how they have lived on through me.

The difficulty of doing this is, of course, being able to gain access to one’s past. Over the years my memories have grown hazy and dim. The further back I go, the more fragmentary they become.

Sometimes they takes on the aura of a dream, a few tangible threads emerge from the miasma that is my brain. I clutch at their dim outline. At other times, just looking at an old photograph or reading an old letter, will bring long-forgotten things back to the surface.

What I am certain of is that the pivotal event of my early life occurred when I was about nine-years old. It was the year my father decided to relocate us from our smallholding outside of Salisbury to a remote farm in the Eastern Highlands of Nyanga. If anything can be termed a life-changing experience for me, this was it.

The property he purchased was in an incredibly beautiful part of the world.

I can still recall, with pin-point clarity, the journey there, driving up through the granite hills and miombo woodland, along a winding road to a crest where the small Nyanga Village lay. From here, the trail dropped down, with sudden abruptness, in to a huge valley, speckled with rocks, bushes and shadows, shimmering in the parchment dry heat as it receded in to the far haze.

View over valley, Nyanga.

Along its eastern flank rose the solid wall of the main Nyanga range. Running parallel to it, on the other side of the enormous valley, ran the Nyangombe River, which would later join the Ruenya which, in turn, flowed in to the mighty Zambezi. Beyond that lay more hills and mountains.

In contrast to the sweltering valley, the plateau on top of the mountains was cool and covered in open moorland and icy streams and seemed hardly Africa. In the rainy season, waves of multi-shadowed clouds would come rolling ponderously over them in never-ending processions.

For a boy of my romantic disposition it was like entering an enchanted world. All was mysterious, unexplored, rich with infinite possibilities. I loved the wildness, the sense of freedom.

Years later, as an undergraduate, I would read Wordsworth’s poem, “The Prelude”. It struck an immediate chord in me:

Fair seed-time had my soul, and I grew up

Foster’d alike by beauty and by fear;

Much favour’d in my birthplace, and no less

In that beloved Vale to which, erelong,

I was transplanted. Well I call to mind

(‘Twas at an early age, ere I had seen

Nine summers) when upon the mountain slope

The frost and breath of frosty wind had snapp’d…”

The mountains Wordsworth was writing about were those of the English Lake District. Mine were distinctly African ones.

There were many of them. On the Eastern side of the farm, the great brooding presence of Mount Muozi rose abruptly up from the plain to its castle-like knob. Even when covered in cloud you could feel its presence; its spirit seemed to permeate the very air. There was something ancient and troubling and mysterious about it which undoubtedly explained why it was held in awe by the locals and had become the focal point for an important rain-making cult.

View from old lands towards Muozi mountain. Note baobab.

The closer you got to it, the higher it towered above you. Again, the words of Wordsworth’s “The Prelude” seemed to fit:

…growing still in stature, the huge Cliff

Rose up between me and the stars, and still,

With measured motion, like a living thing,

Strode after me…”

Looking north, from the top of the castle, the main range surged away to Nyangui (“The Place of Shouting”), the big, bulky, colossus that marked the end of the Nyanga range, as well as serving as our corner boundary. It was also the mountain from which our farm took its name.

Nyangui (“The Place of Shouting”) mountain. Picture courtesy of Patrick Stidolph.

If Muozi looked like a vessel striving to break loose of its moorings than Nyangui was the bulwark that anchored it back.

Like Muozi, though, it could, when the mood took it, get quite spooky, radiating an air of almost tangible menace, especially when the skies grew sullen and arbitrary bolts of lightning started slashing through the sky. At certain times of the year the wind would grow wild and angry and come hurling down its slopes with an almost end-of-the world fury.

The other mountain which looms large in my childhood memories is Sedze although it was not actually on our farm but situated further back, towards the Nyanga village.

Sedze (‘Rhino’) mountain.

At the one end of it, just above Bende Gap, rose two great rock pinnacles, steeper and more pronounced than any others in the range. From the innermost of the two towers, the mountain sloped upwards in to a massive, domed, bulky, behemoth of rock fitted with clefts and rib-like fissures that gave it the appearance of some ancient animal afflicted by a strange lethargy.

Because of its resemblance to a sleeping pachyderm we always called it the “Rhino” mountain.

Returning from boarding school I always felt elated and light-headed to see the “Rhino” and yet at the same time near to tears because it meant I was almost home again.

Although it slopes were steep and uninhabited, the valley floor below was littered with scores of thatched huts and cattle kraals and patches of cultivated lands. Straggling along the top of one ridge, along which the road traversed, was a cluster of little shops with corrugated iron roofs. This was the Sedze Business Centre. For some reason these old buildings imprinted themselves in my mind; so much so that years later I felt compelled to do a painting of them.

Sedze mountain. View from Business Centre. Painting by Anthony Stidolph.

Our own house was a low rambling affair, close to a stream that ran down from Muozi. Later, my one brother, Paul, would build a slightly more elaborate and stylish homestead near a rocky outcrop, using white quartz for the walls and thatch for the roof. Positioned next to an old baobab, it commanded tremendous views over the surrounding mountains

Having laid idle for years, turning this stretch of Africa back in to a farm was hard work. There was plenty of bush to clear, furrows to dig, fences to put up. Because we were always short of cash, all the children were expected to chip in during the school holidays.

We were always a close family. The bond between us all, already strong, was strengthened during the Nyanga years.

In some ways it was a cloistered childhood. Outside my siblings and the farm mutts I had no companions or acquaintances to share it with. This did not make me unhappy or fretful. Nor did it bother me that I was not able to participate in all the entertainments and amusements – movies, parties, dating, sport – that other teenagers took as a matter of course.

Being so restricted and yet so active actually had its benefits even if I didn’t always fully appreciate them at the time. I developed an early love of nature which has never left me. I created a world of my own in to which I could slip away unnoticed. I learnt how to fall back on my own resources.

When I was not on the farm, I was away at boarding school, an institution I hated because it took me away from my beloved mountains. What strikes me now is the narrowness of life in it.

Ours was, of course, a segregated society and only white boys were allowed to attend the school. Beyond the cleaners, the ground staff and the kitchen workers we had little personal contact with the local African population.

It was a life, into which the great affairs of the world seemed hardly to intrude. Nor did any of us ever really bother to question the racial and quasi-Imperial doctrines of the time or the fairness of the system in to which we had, as relatively privileged white children, been born.

It was only during my final years at boarding school that the world of politics began to force its way in to my life.

In elections held in December, 1962, the right-wing Rhodesian Front, who had promised to deal ruthlessly with the nationalist menace and to entrench white rule permanently, had swept to power. One of their first demands was that the country be granted independence.

For the next three years the RF Government would be engaged in a series of fruitless negotiations with the British. With the situation at stalemate, it had become more and more obvious that we were headed for some sort of showdown. As young and ill-informed as I was, even I had become aware that, beneath the carefree surface of my life, the political sands were shifting fast.

On the 11th November, 1965, it finally happened. For weeks beforehand there had been much talk and speculation and an atmosphere of considerable excitement had built up, even among us schoolboys. Now, before a hushed nation, Smith made his big announcement – Rhodesia had declared its independence from Britain.

The effect was dramatic. Suddenly, politics occupied the minds of everybody in the country from the remote farms to the government offices, from prospector to priest.

It was an epochal event. Not only did it change the course of all our lives but it would eventually trigger a lot of soul-searching for me.

Caught in the same fusion of fear and excitement as everybody else, slowly, hesitantly, my attitudes began to change. Over the following years I would increasingly find myself wondering about the wisdom of the course of action the RF government had embarked on, especially once the Rhodesian Bush War began to exact its heavy toll.

I also started to look more critically at the society I had grown up in. Cut off as I was from the mainstream, even I could see that Rhodesia was not exactly a centre of cosmopolitan artistic energy and progressive thinking.

My family background, no doubt, played a factor in this growing awareness of the world around me. As a pilot, my father had travelled the length and breadth of the continent, as well as working in Arabia and Europe. Unlike many of his fellow countrymen who were hidebound, conformist and set in their ways of thinking (little realising they represented an age that was passing) his exposure to other people and cultures had left him relatively open-minded and tolerant about politics and race.

My parents and youngest sister: Monica, Nicky and Reg Stidolph. Nyangui in background.

Although he exuded a natural authority, my father was also at heart, something of an outsider, a maverick, a free thinker. While I may not have inherited his unwavering self-confidence, I like to think I did get a dose of his individualism, curiosity and refusal to be pigeon-holed.

In other areas we were different. I was the fourth son in a family of seven children and this undoubtedly impinged on my temperament. Whereas my three elder brothers were practical like my father I took after my mother, inheriting her artistic side. Unlike my brothers, too, I had no aptitude for the sciences.

Looking back at it all now, from the perspective of old age, I realise how much of my character and how many of my views and attitudes were forged back then. It also makes me realise how lucky I was to have the childhood I did.

Living in those beautiful surroundings helped foster my imagination. It taught me to see things and to value solitude and worship the ordinary dirt that sustains us. It also showed me that without peace and quiet you can miss your inner voice.

In that sense, those early years of deprivation and isolation helped prepare me for life under lockdown. I grew up used to keeping my own counsel and finding my way through the thickets.

Of course, the fact that I now live in one of the most breathtakingly scenic parts of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands – the Karkloof – also made my incarceration a lot easier to bear…

Sunset over Kusane Farm in pre-Lockdown days. Myself, sister Sally and her daughter-in-law, Tammy. Picture courtesy of Craig Scott.

Slowing Down in Lockdown

When lockdown was first introduced in South Africa I went along with received opinion. I washed my hands thoroughly. I practiced social distancing. Realising I was in the at risk category, I only left the farm twice in the first seventy-eight days and when I did I wore a mask. I made sure I got in to town just as the shops were opening and didn’t spend any more time in them than I needed to.

In the same spirit, I tried to make lockdown a positive experience. Over the months I found different things to focus on. I developed interests I never had before. I re-established my connection with the living world.

Indeed, with hindsight, I think one of the most important things lock-down – and retirement for that matter – gave me was time to slow down and start noticing things. The sheer scale of the global catastrophe forced me in to a kind of retreat, a moment of reflection.

I began studying my immediate surroundings with an even greater interest.

For example: each day, since lockdown began, found me patrolling my garden forensically, in the manner of an East German border guard back in the Cold War era, except what I was on the look-out for was not defectors but butterflies. Instead of an assault rifle, I carried my old Canon.

As winter progressed so their numbers dwindled but every now and again I would come across one, fluttering along in all its flowery grace and fragile beauty. With every new butterfly I identified I felt a mounting sense of elation and achievement.

Determined to remain upbeat, in spite of the grim trajectory the virus was taking, I deliberately limited my intake of news to what I deemed necessary for me to be able to produce my one topical weekly cartoon. It wasn’t always easy. At times the line between tragedy and farce grew very fine.

Like most people, I accepted the logic and rationale behind the initial lockdown but as the weeks stretched in to months I found my faith beginning to waiver. Having done its best to scare us in to staying indoors the ANC government began to flounder on some of its own draconian rules.

These included a ban on the sale of cigarettes and alcohol, both of which were based on a rather convoluted logic, as well as some sloppy and outdated science. Many of the other regulations – like what sort of clothes you could or couldn’t buy under Level 4 of the lockdown – were just plain nonsensical, verging on Kafka-like.

My suspicions that there was something both insidious and wrong with the handling of the pandemic was reinforced when the Judge in the High Court of Pretoria declared that many of the regulations failed the “rationality test” – and were also unconstitutional and invalid. Indeed, as the crisis dragged on, it became increasingly apparent that many of the government ministers were using the pandemic as a cover to pursue their own hidden agendas and conduct their own personal crusades – and that these often had very little to do with our health.

As so often happens in South Africa, ideology had trumped common sense…

Police Minister Bheki Cele and COGTA Minister Nkosana Dlamini-Zuma applying the screws

Not that our problems were necessarily worse than anywhere else. The US, for example, was typically overconfident in its exceptional-ism and paid the price.

When the news seemed overwhelming, however, nature provided a balm. It became my escape. My therapy. My reminder of how much I have to be thankful for.

I am lucky to live in the country. In many ways my life carried on as it had before lockdown; there was no real adjustment required. I could still go for daily walks. There was my garden to work. My chickens to feed.

Nor was I all that bothered about being cut-off from the rest of society. As a cartoonist I am used to the solitary life. I have always worked from home so self-isolation is a habit for me.

I won’t pretend there weren’t things I missed – a cup of coffee with a friend, a simple hug, the freedom to drive where I liked.

By way of companions, I had the birds. There is not a day in my life that is not improved by seeing my resident pair of Boubous bouncing along or hearing the Cape Turtle Doves calling from the trees.

Resident male Southern Boubou, bouncing along...

The migrants were, of course, long gone. I missed them but we still had our regulars in my garden. Each morning I would wake up to the Cape Robin and the Olive Thrush singing outside my window. If I got up early enough I sometimes caught our skittish pair of Natal Francolin making a dash for it across my lawn.

With the breeding season over the weavers had lost their masks but still gathered on my food table every morning chattering away like excited schoolboys. They would be joined by the rock pigeons, doves and sparrows.

The South African lockdown officially started just as autumn was giving way to winter. I love winter. With the rains over everything begins to dry out and a smoky haze veils the sky, dulling the light and robbing the landscape of contrasts. Dust coats everything near the road, even the trees and houses.

Sunrise over the valley with pockets of mist.

There is a stark, minimalist beauty to the countryside at this time of the year. Sometimes Jack Frost comes calling overnight, leaving little patches of white icicles clenching the ground. On other occasions, a chill wind blows in the mornings and as I set off to take stock of the local state of nature the leaves that autumn stripped from the trees crunch and snap beneath my feet.

Across the valley thin sheets of mist hang suspended above the hollows. On the saddle path, the sun’s rays catch the dew drops hanging on the funnel spiders’ webs.

You can smell the crisp, frosty, dryness in the air.

It is my favourite time of the year for walking. The icy cold appeals to the Spartan in me. I find it invigorating and oddly purifying. It sharpens my senses.

In the afternoon the light and temperatures fade early. By five-thirty the chickens have already put themselves to bed.

Sitting on my balcony, at twilight, sipping one of my hard-to-come-by-beers I could feel the breath of winter on my neck. It was cold. The soft evening skies at this time of year are beautiful though.

Below me I could sometimes hear the jackal calling as they set off on another night of hunting for food. In the moonlight the defoliated trees are silhouettes. The wind blowing up the rocky slopes rattle their branches.

There were other pleasures. Winter is also aloe season and with their beautiful orange-red flowers came the sunbirds (mostly Amethyst, Malachite and Greater Double- collared). It is also the time when the Wild Dagga (Leonotis leonorus) bushes flower, another sunbird favourite. I deliberately planted both species to try and seduce birds in to my garden and it has done the trick.

Malachite sunbird in aloe.

Winter is not all good. It can also be a time of violent drama. From where we are, safe in my sanctum overlooking the valley, you can often see huge fires sweeping across its floor, destroying countless creatures as it goes. I cannot imagine how many insects, reptiles and rodents must get enveloped and killed in the flames. This, in turn, impacts on the raptors that hunt them because it means less food. Winter can be hard on predator and prey alike.

Fire in the valley...

At such times the sun turns a pale yellow behind the plumes of smoke and the air is bitter with the smell of ash and burning debris.

This got me thinking about conservation, loss of biodiversity and what we are doing to the world. Thanks to agribusiness, agrochemicals, artificial fertilizer, farm mechanization and an intensification of arable farming much of our natural fauna and flora is being destroyed. Looking out over our urban landscapes, too, I see an ever-expanding mass of railway tracks, petrol stations, cement blocks, pylons and factories pumping effluent in to our streams and poison in to the air. And piles of plastic.

As a keen twitcher, I have noticed the steady decline of wildlife over the years. I grew up, for instance, with guineafowl abundant and all around; after harvesting, the fields were fill of them, pecking their way through the stubble in search of dropped mielie seeds. In the decades since there numbers seem to have grown less and less. It is like someone came along and removed them all.

Our resident guineafowl flock. We raised them from chicks.

It makes me very sad. And angry. Far too much of our wildlife is teetering on the edge of the ecological cliff.

Paralleling that has been the steady spread of invasive plants. Vast acreages have been given over to sterile pine, wattle and gum plantations inside which very little lives.

Nor is it confined to that. One of the biggest problems we face on Kusane is eradicating the bramble, an alien, invasive, species that creeps over the grasses and crawls over the plants. It is like a cancer and a nightmare to fight your way through because its thorns shred your legs.

Likewise bugweed. Our neighbour has a veritable forest of these and the seeds are picked up by the birds and dropped on our farm where they easily germinate and spread.

Invading our grasslands, all these plants reduce water run-off, and increase the severity of wildfires. It has been estimated that alien trees consume 5% of our scarce water and are a direct threat to almost half of the 1600 natural species listed in South Africa’s Red Data List.

Ruminating on this, I find my mind returning to lockdown. I can’t help but see the Covid-19 pandemic as a portent, an omen, a warning and a reminder of how much our economies, our livelihoods and our well-being depend on the health of nature. That seems to me to be our problem – we have become alienated from the natural world.

We need to re-learn that we are part of nature, not above it. Destroy it, in our blind pursuit of profit, and we destroy ourselves…

I will do my little bit to try and stop that. I am a tree man. To help make a greener world, I have opened up a new patch of ground, alongside Rubble Row, where I have already planted yet more indigenous species (Paperbark thorn, Tree Fuschia, Cheesewood, Ouhout). I know I won’t live long enough to see them mature but that is not the point. I am doing it for the next generation, a generation who face a far scarier future than ours did.

Part of my self-planted indigenous forest.

Lockdown has taught me other lessons. Being forced to stay at home made me realise that – as frugal as I like to think I am – I used to waste a lot of money on unnecessary shopping trips in to town.

It has also induced the waste not want not attitude of my parent’s generation. With the supermarket shelves rapidly emptying because of panic-buying I decided I needed to resurrect my vegetable garden. Luckily I have a source of manure both from our chickens and sheep, as well as the stables down the road. We also have our own compost heap.

There is something very comforting and rewarding about tending your own vegetables and eating the result. Growing your own food reminds you that you are part of a system and that everything we eat comes – in one way or another – out of the earth.

That is something we need to keep in mind long after lockdown ends. Or else we may face an even worse environmental and human catastrophe…

The Hunt for the Karkloof Blue

The Karkloof Blue

As part of my plan of self-improvement to fill in the days I was stuck in lock-down, I decided to develop a new interest – butterfly spotting.

I make no bones about it. When I fixate on something, I don’t like to let go. As a political cartoonist, Robert Mugabe, Jacob Zuma and Donald Trump have all, in turn, become objects for both my anger and relentless scorn.

The flip side to this is my obsessive quest to find beauty and it is here the butterflies come in.

I like to hunt things not because I have any desire to capture or kill them but because of the sense of discovery it brings. Through acquaintance and experience comes knowledge.

I don’t know enough about butterflies to know if my local patch is a particularly good spot for them or not but they are here and this is where we both play out the daily drama of our lives. Like astronauts in a spaceship we are fellow-travellers, co-habitants in this capsule we call Earth. My joy stems from the search, the exercise of a skill and the intense pleasure that comes finding out who I share my space with..

I always enjoy these field excursions. There is a comforting familiarity about this countryside. I have walked it many times. Over the years I have got to know all the landmarks and a lot of the wildlife.

I know this stretch of grasslands is home to a little group of Wailing Cisticolas and that, on misty mornings, the Black Crows like to call from the top of those three pines. That odd-shaped cluster of rocks is the playground for a family of cheery, chatty, Buff-streaked Chats.

The Yellow Warblers prefer the boggy patch down by the river. Invariably there will be a wagtail or two there as well where the stream runs fastest over the rocks.

And that cluster of pines over there? That is where the Long-crested Eagle has its nest.

It is not just the birds. Oribi and reedbuck are sometimes to be seen in that valley on the other side of the fence. There is an old Bushbuck ram who sometimes emerges from our small indigenous forest.

I have also stumbled on several puff-adders, lying doggo on this path. Them, I give a wide berth.

I have not been specifically studying them for all that long but already I have discovered that a surprising number of butterflies live here too.

As I walk along the path they come flapping and gliding, undulating and all but loop-the-looping. They can be difficult to get near even when they have settled on the ground. I wonder whether they have some sort of in-built sonar system that alerts them to my presence or whether they just pick up the vibrations of my boots hitting the ground?

There is still a lot to learn. With birds you can refine your focus by what you know about their preferences and behaviour. With butterflies I don’t have that sort of accumulated knowledge and experience. I am coming in half blind. I have to slowly feel my way.

I have no ‘hit list’ of butterflies I expect to see (other than the one who inspired this piece). I will accept whatever comes along.

I am beginning to make some progress. I now recognise an assortment of garden specials like the Garden Inspector (Precis ceryne ceryne), the Garden Acraea (Acraea horta), the Rainforest Brown (Cassionyympha cassius) and the Polka Dot (Pardopsis punctatissima). On Rubble Row there are usually African Monarchs (Danaus chrysippus) and Yellow Pansies (Junonia hierta cebrene).

A bit further down the path – almost half-way to the river – there is a bank where the African Jokers (my spirit butterfly, I have decided) like to hangout. This is where I also recorded my first Bush Bronze (Cacyreus lingeus), a small but beautifully patterned butterfly.

Betwixt and between are a whole assortment of other butterflies, large, medium and small. And mostly colourful. Many are as stunning as their names suggest…

By constantly checking my butterfly field book* to identify the ones I am unfamiliar with I am slowly beginning to learn more about their characteristics, behaviour and preferred habitat.

I have also discovered the Karkloof, where I live, is home to one of the rarest of them all – the Karkloof Blue (Orachrysops ariadne. Also known as the Karkloof Cupid).

It is so rare that when ESKOM threatened to run a line of massive electricity pylons through our pristine, beautiful, valley, a group of concerned local conservationists and farmers banded together and used its highly threatened status as one of their arguments to oppose the construction.

Indeed the Karkloof Blue is so rare, the Midland Meander Association have adopted it as their symbol and made saving it part of their mission statement.

Flipping a little further through the pages of my book I discovered it is not the only butterfly that takes its name from the area. There is also the Karkloof Charanx (Charaxes karkloof. Also known as the Karkloof Emperor) and the Karkloof Russet (Aloeides susanae. Also known as Susan’s Copper).

Now I am getting in to this butterfly thing, I must look out for them too.

I decided to devote my main focus, however, to tracking down the Karkloof Blue, transferring the same obsessions I normally employ when birding. Its flight period is March-April which cuts down my window of opportunity considerably.

Before setting out to look for it, though, I needed to know more about my quarry.

The Field Guide describes it as “Colonial in steep-sided grass gullies near Afromontane forest.” That sounded a bit like our part of the world. Especially the ‘colonial’ bit…

Wanting to find out more I turned, next, to the University of Google:

Endemic to the mist-belt grassland of KwaZulu-Natal, the Karkloof Blue is on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species.

Extensive burning, alien encroachment and livestock have all led to its decline as its habitat has been systematically destroyed. With only only three known colonies, one of which is in the Karkloof, it is now regarded as an indicator species.

Fires and alien encroachment

The statistics make grim reading: due to afforestation and cultivation at least 92% of the Mist-belt grassland has been transformed, with only 1% in good condition remaining.

It seems pretty obvious to me that the Karkloof Blue is not the only creatures whose habitat is being destroyed in these ways. I am sure countless other insects, reptiles and rodents are experiencing a similar fate and this, in turn, must be having a ripple effect on the birds and animals that prey on them.

It is worrying. I suppose it all comes down to that spaceship analogy I used earlier on. We need to realise we only have limited resources and the more we destroy or pollute them, the more we threaten our own future survival.

As sad and distressing as I find this, I intend to persist in my efforts to track down the Karkloof Blue. So far, I have come across a few blue butterflies that come close but don’t quite fit the bill. There is the African Grass (or Sooty) Blue (Zizzeeria knysna), the Common Zebra Blue (Leptotes pirithous pirithous) and the Pea Blue (Lampides boeticus).

But no Karkloof Blue.

With winter fast approaching and its flight period closing down, I decided to postpone my search until next season. Then, I intend to look harder, thinking about the best likely habitat and hoping for that lucky break and familiar surge of excitement that comes from finding something new.

I can feel it. I can sense it. I know it is out there somewhere in the rolling green ocean of grass, just waiting to be found.

It is the lure of the rare. The Karkloof Blue has become my Moby Dick. My White (Blue?) Whale.

*Field Guide to the Butterflies of South Africa by Steve Woodhall (published by Struik Nature).

Some Notes on Watching a Butterfly Flutter by…

Literature and butterflies are the two sweetest passions known to man.

Vladimir Nabokov.

A host of butterflies. I took this pic near Barberton, Mpumalanga.

It is 7.30 am and I am taking my usual nosey wander down the path that leads from my house to the Kusane river. It is a beautiful, balmy, sun-filled, day. Suddenly a butterfly – or rather a butterfly and its passenger – alights on a plant just to my right.

In the past I would have just cast a cursory glance in their direction and then proceeded on my way.

This time I stop, grab my old Canon out of its bag and start snapping away. The reason for this is that I have recently been given a field guide to the butterflies of South Africa* to review and suddenly I have become enamoured with the subject.

I circle around the butterfly, trying to get closer and closer, angling in for the perfect shot. I have no idea what the butterfly is but as soon as I get home I will get out the book and try and identify it, looking for its most distinctive features (as a political cartoonist I have had a lot of experience in this – it is what I do when a new president or other public figure appears). I will also look at the butterflies habits and distribution, hunting for those tell-tale clues that might aid me in my search.

African Monarch (Danaus chrysippus), Kusane Farm.

Then I will add it to my list.

As an artist my approach to nature has always been more sentimental than scientific. I am attracted by the lyrical rather than the factual. I look for beauty and seek solace in my natural surroundings. I love the intense intimacy you can develop with your local landscape over time.

All of which makes it strange that I have neglected – although not completely ignored – butterflies for so long because if anything inspires a sense of wonder in nature they do.

I am determined to remedy this. I have probably left it rather late in life to ever become anything like an expert but you have to start somewhere. And, because it is so open, Kusane Farm seems a good place to begin. Also, I live here.

A Pirate Butterfly (Catacroptera cloanthe cloanthe) about to take off. Note small beetles. Kusane.

In spring and summer we get lots of wild flowers coming up in the mist-belt grasslands, especially after a burn. That serves as a magnet for the nectar-loving insect.

It is 7.30 am again and I am back on the familiar path hoping to carry on where I left off before. Around me the swallows are diving and swooping with quick forward thrusts. There is a strong impression of activity and movement everywhere.

I home in on a butterfly which has landed in a cluster of flowers.

As I approach it, it glides off, stalls, hovers and drops down on to another flower with closed wings. Out comes its long, thin, tube-like proboscis and inserting it in to the flower it proceeds to feed. Once it has sated itself, off it goes in search of the next flower.

Citrus Swallowtail (Papilio demodocus demodocus). Note proboscis. Kusane.

Everywhere I look there are other butterflies doing the same.

Their flight paths seem wildly erratic, they keep making continual adjustments to their speed, direction and angle of flight. Unlike most birds or bees, you don’t get that sense they know where they are going.

And yet they obviously do.

Sometimes – as happens in the annual migration of the Brown-veined White Butterfly (Belenois aurota) which takes place at midsummer each year – they come floating by in straggly groups for days on end. There are thousands and thousands of them in seemingly endless flight. I was amazed to read, in my guide, that this particular species originate in the dry Karoo and Kalahari where they gather in their millions and take to the sky heading in a southerly to easterly direction up through the East Cape and Kwa Zulu – Natal to the Mozambique coastline.

That is a long way to fly for something so fragile and small.

What makes this mass migration even more astonishing is that the butterflies need precisely timed stopovers for feeding – which means they need to find flowers growing at regular intervals.

This can’t be easy since to fuel this epic marathon they probably have to harvest hundreds of flowers a day.

The other question which kept whizzing around my brain, as I stood watching them zig-zagging their way across the farm, was this – how can a creature with such a pin-size brain navigate and keep track of its position?! I must confess I have no explanation. As happens everywhere in nature, there still are many unanswered questions, which intrigue amateurs at least as much as scientists.

My butterfly list, so far, is not very long and includes no rarities, just your common varieties (although back in 2018, when I was in Marakele, I did see a Kransberg Widow, a very rare and beautiful butterfly which briefly appears during November and early-December and only occurs on this particular mountain. Unfortunately, I did not get a photograph of it).

I hope to rectify that.

To an outsider this making of lists probably seems like a strange passion, one bordering on obsession. Almost a perversion. They may be right. I don’t care. For me it is all part of the thrill of the chase.

As a long-standing twitcher, I have experienced the sense of excitement and privilege which comes from finding something special (a Pel’s Fishing Owl, Narina Trogon, African Broadbill, Rudd’s Apalis, Southern Banded Snake Eagle, Palm-nut Vulture, a pale, female, morph form of the Eurasian Honey Buzzard – to name a few). That thrill grows even stronger when you come across what we interpret as a “rarity” or a “vagrant” (my list is probably topped by the Gull-billed Tern which I got at Nyamithi Pan in Ndumo Game Reserve in Zululand).

Already I am picking up some valuable tips and learning some important life-lessons as I pursue my quarry and record my sightings.

I have discovered, for example, that while we humans may abhor them in our gardens, butterflies simply love weeds. The irritating black jack, which you find so annoying because it sticks to your clothes when you brush past it, seems to be a particular favourite of theirs.

Garden Acraea (Acraea horta) on blackjack flower, Kusane.

This in turn has caused a major rethink on my part. Suddenly I am far more reluctant to pull these bothersome plants out of my flower garden and toss them to the chickens to turn in to mulch. They fulfil a role. They feed the butterflies who I want to attract to my garden. I want the butterflies to look upon my home as their home.

With climate change already taking its toll, one wonders what will happen to the humble, unassuming, butterfly in the future? Will they be able to evolve or adjust their behaviour?

Rising temperatures, associated with climate change, have already begun to change birds schedules. Many have started moving south.

When I first arrived in KwaZulu-Natal, for example, it was unusual to see the Wooly-necked Stork south of the Zululand parks. An uncommon resident they were regarded as a wetland species associated with lagoons, ponds and rivers. In recent years they have started showing up in increasing numbers in cities such as Pietermaritzburg and Durban, in a sense swapping one habitat for another.

A Wooly-necked Stork in Pietermaritzburg suburbia, ignoring metal imposters. Picture courtesy of Mark Wing.

Some plants are also making this latitudinal shift.

I would imagine the same is happening to butterflies although I don’t know enough about them to be sure. Assuming that tree and flower-blossoming times are also changing it seems likely though.

What I do know for certain, is that I hope they will always be around. If the ancient Greek Goddess, Gaea – the first deity to be born after Chaos, the gaping emptiness – is seen as the personification of the earth and the Mother of Everything Beautiful, then the unassuming butterfly must, surely, be one of her most potent and miraculous symbols?

GALLERY:

Herewith a selection of photographs, showing some of the butterflies in our area:

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* Field Guide to Butterflies of South Africa by Steve Woodhall (published by Struik Nature).

Reflections in the Mist

I am a bushveld addict.

Having grown up and lived in it for most of my youth it is where I always felt most settled and where my heart belonged. No other environment has affected me the way it did nor created the same feeling of mystical bond. Recalling that early period of my life never fails to excite the deepest nostalgia.

It is the romantic in me, I guess.

The true bushveld has a spirit, ancient and impassive. It is a spirit which lives on; I know it, I feel it. It lives on despite the ripple of human effects. It lives on despite our attempts to tame and domesticate it. It lives on despite our plans to commercialise and exploit it and turn it to profit. It lives on despite the encroachment of farms and cities…

Typical bushveld country, South Kruger.

Even when I am not in it, I can still imagine it: the dust, the heat, the dryness. It is a place of extremes. In the bushveld the sun is brighter, the full moon seems bigger than anywhere else.

Its summer storms are a wonder to behold. The high, piled, whipped cream clouds. The gradual darkening to an intense blue. The sudden ragged bolts of lightning.

And then the rain drumming down and getting soaked up by the parched ground. There is no smell on earth quite like the liberated scents of dust, grass and vegetation released after the first bushveld storm of the season.

Summer storm in the bushveld.

Immediately you feel a new energy, a new hope. A quickening of the blood. A rising excitement.

Everything suddenly seems to come alive. The buck start leaping and cavorting, the birds become a flutter of activity, twittering and chirping in the trees.

In next to no time the grass starts sending up new green shoots, the trees break out in bud.

And such trees! What can be more African then the Baobabs, Kiaats, Mopani, Leadwood, Tamboti, Marula, Jackalberry, Nyala trees, Sausage trees, Acacias, Bushwillow, Silver Cluster-leaf, Sycamore Figs and all the other, seemingly infinite, variety trees you associate with it.

These feelings did not diminish when I moved from Zimbabwe to South Africa. Although I elected to live far from the bushveld, in Pietermaritzburg, in KwaZulu-Natal, my heart still lay to the North. On my birding trips you would invariably find me heading up towards the crocodile-infested, fever tree-lined, pans of Ndumo, the broken, granite country around the Crocodile River in Mpumalanga, the enormous sun-drenched plains of Kruger, the red cliffs of Mapungubwe and the mopani-covered Limpopo Valley.

When I wanted to get even further away there was the Matobo Hills, Kariba, Mana Pools, Mangwe and Gona-re-Zhou in Zimbabwe, on the other side of the border.

My kind of country: Gona-re-Zhou, Zimbabwe.

Although I had done the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands Meander many times, I had never really thought about living there. For me it was just a green, pretty, tranquil, place to escape to when I needed a break from the bedlam and noisy confusion of city life. I liked sticking my nose in to its arts studios. I liked sampling the fare at its numerous food outlets, pubs and restaurants. I enjoyed soaking up the slightly bucolic, Surrey-in-Africa, atmosphere.

That all changed when my friends, William and Karen, bought Kusane Farm in the Curry’s Post area, on a hill overlooking the Karkloof Valley, and asked me if I would like to come and live on it.

Having reached an age where I felt my life needed a change of direction I duly motored up to check it out.

Like William and Karen I loved Kusane from first sight. Staring over the valley below I just stopped and whispered “Oh boy!” softly to myself.
It had just rained and everything about the day was lovely. The pleasing tidiness of the fields below. The tree-clad slopes of the Karkloof Hills stretching along the one side of it and, near the centre of valley, the oddly leonine shape of Loskop hill thrusting itself out of the earth. The Kusane river – from which the farm took its name – passing through a belt of trees and then snaking its way in a series of bends across the wide plain towards the edge of an escarpment.

View over Karkloof Valley after rain.

There was a freshness in the air, an exhilarating quality to the light. The grass underfoot was soft and green and moist with life.

It was clear I had found a place set apart; one which also had its own special isolation of spirit. Relocating to it became, in its own paradoxical way, a kind of homecoming.

I was surprised by my reaction because anything less like my beloved bushveld in Southern Africa would be hard to find.

Curry’s Post is mostly mist-belt grassland with pockets of remnant indigenous forest (or at least it was until the timber companies discovered its potential and despoiled the countryside by planting miles and miles of sterile fir trees).

In summer the mist comes drifting in most evenings, reducing visibility and creating as slightly unreal radiance as it gets hit by the dying embers of the sun.

Unreal radiance: Karkloof Valley.

As the winter cold fronts move through they often bring mist too. From my upstairs balcony I watch it with curiosity as it rolls closer, like a grey wave, until it suddenly enfolds me in a blanket of cold damp.

It is strangely disorienting but also oddly comforting, even as it obliterates all the familiar visual landmarks that surround me and provide me with a frame of reference.

In the end, I did not have to consult any crystal-gazers or soothsayers of some kind to find out why I so quickly fell under its spell. It was my sister, Penny (who is, admittedly, a soothsayer of sorts), who pointed out the obvious.

“It is wired in to your DNA,” she explained.

Originally of Viking descent, my Scottish ancestors, the Moodies, had dwelt for centuries among the heather and bleak, rain-swept hills of the Isle of Hoy on the Orkney Islands. Another branch came from Ireland, the original ‘Misty Isles’. Such scenes would have been familiar to both. Accustomed to the mist and rain, they, too, would have felt quite at home here.

I have always been very proud of my Norsemen roots although I fear that something must have gone wrong with me because although I may have inherited the complexion and hair, I completely lack the marauding temperament! On the contrary, I am a very friendly, peaceful, law-abiding sort of chap, quite happy to let my neighbours keep what is rightfully theirs.

In this respect, maybe I take after my mother’s side of the family.

I do like to roam though. One of the pleasures of being in the autumn of my years is that I am now a man of (limited) independent means, beholden to no one.

I get to decide when I want to be active and when I want to be passive. Should I dig a hole and plant a tree, or just sit and look at a tree?

Or should I be both active and passive and go for a walk? It on these daily ambles that I get to delight in my new found sense of freedom.

Walking in the mist with Minki and Whisky.

I especially like walking in the mist. Something about the half gloom brings out an ancient instinct, a memory buried deep in the back of my brain. There is a healing magic about such weather, it is very evocative of the mysteries, it induces a feeling of solitude in me. It is like having the whole universe to myself.

The Kusane, after which the farm is named, is a small stream but has a waterfall and pool further up, closer to its source. To get to it you follow the path that runs along the ridge that forms the backbone of the farm. Near its highest point is a bald expanse of rock, Lizard Rock, which on a sunny day offers a clear 360-degree view but that window closes down altogether when the mist drifts in. I often like to pause and sit here, alone with my thoughts.

From the top of the ridge the path zig-zags its way down from the one end of the valley all the way to the other. As it winds along you can hear the river but you cannot see it.

The route down to the Kusane River.

Sometimes, if I am lucky, the vague shape of a reedbuck will emerge out of the dripping greyness. Momentarily startled, we will both stand and stare at each other before it bounds away, out of sight.

Reedbuck in the mist, Kusane Farm.

Other times I will hear the strange whooshing sound of a gaggle of Spurwing geese winging overhead.

Spurwing Geese, Karkloof Valley.

The half light can play tricks with your eyes. Even the rocks can take on the appearance of something living: a crouched lion, a sleeping hippo or some sort of dragon-creature, the fissures on the surface of the stone becoming its hide.

At the path’s lowest point you reach a river crossing near where the old pump-house used to be.

Once I get here, I like to sit on the river bank and listen to the sounds: the conversation between rock and flowing water; the plaintiff call of the Longclaw as it rises high in the air; the thin beleaguered cries of the plovers flying overhead and the wind whispering in the grass.

To the ancient folk such sounds carried meaning. I like to think they still do, it is just that our busy, modern minds have forgotten how to hear.

For some reason our local black crows become more vocal on these grey, overcast days. They, too, speak a language which comes from a remote, mysterious time. Their raucous yet eerie sound-shifts, echoing through the swirling mist, conjures up both the natural and the supernatural, magic and wizardry.

You can understand why they were associated with the dark arts in traditional European folklore.

In Zulu society, too, crows and ravens are seen as an omen of misfortune and death (although in New Mexico, as I discovered, the native Americans believe the exact opposite. They see them as bearers of good tidings).

White-necked Raven.

Crows are also, arguably the world’s smartest bird so perhaps it is a little unfair to cast them in such terms. Maybe our irrational fears and prejudices say more about our own morbid thought patterns and preoccupations than it does those of these maligned and often misunderstood birds?

The Black Cuckoo, a summer visitor to our parts, is another wisp of a figure, barely glimpsed but often heard. His mournful call ‘hoo hooee’ is sometimes rendered as “I am so siiiiick!” With climate change casting its grim spectre over our lives, it is a sound which, for me at least, seems to capture some mystical truth about the state of the natural world.

Sitting in the grey gloom I find myself imagining something else – what if one day there were no birdsong at all? What if, in our hard-nosed materialism and clumsy efforts to dominate the planet, we drove all the other species to the edge of extinction?

I do not think I could live in a world where their beautiful cacophony of sounds exist only in memory.

For me there is an important truth to be acknowledged here. While the misty landscape invariably infuses me with a sense of well-being, this feeling is, at times, tinged with a touch of melancholy. I am only too aware that what I am enjoying offers only a temporary escape from the troubles of the rest of the world, lying just over the hill. Yet, in a strange way, this awareness only sharpens one sense of momentary pleasure. It makes you enjoy it all the more because you realise how transitory it is.

And so, as I continue to totter along the straight, stony, path to old age and beyond I intend to keep glorying in the mist.

KARKLOOF GALLERY: